Off the back of two spectacular releases from 2002 (97pts) and 2004 (98pts), I rate Grange custodian Peter Gago highly for his achievements with Grange thus far. The current vintage, 2006, might not be from as fancied a shiraz vintage as the previous two wines mentioned, but it was a good year nonetheless, and I feel its seasonal conditions might just of suited the 'Grange style' even better.
Perhaps constricted at first, the 2006 Grange swirls open with a bit of air, revealing a tightly knit scent of very fine-grained, lightly spicy cedar/mocha oak, pumped up by an impressively deep, complex array of Barossa shiraz character. Aromas of licorice, earth, dark plums and berries, roast meats, white pepper, cherry cola and sarsaparilla maybe, all emerge in the display, but its character laden fragrance is ultimately even and terribly inviting, with not a hair out of place. Initially, it enters the palate in a surprisingly silky, sensuous manner, before a downright authoritative tannin structure takes shape. Growing waves of ultra-fine, powdery tannins ensconce its youthful Grange notes of dark berries, soy, licorice and nutty/chocolate oak, with a refreshing hit of sour-edged fruit rearing its head towards the finish. It's uncompromisingly deep yet practically medium-bodied, proving itself surprisingly elegant, drinkable and just so, so balanced. Its 'fanned-out', 'peacock's tail' of a finish remains the most defining feature, but then there's the harmony and guaranteed longevity...
ü The 2006 Grange is one of the most balanced expressions of South Australian shiraz you could imagine, but clearly, its best years are yet to come. That isn't to say it isn't drinking well now, because it possesses a sensuous, medium weighted feel and ultra, ultra-fine tannin structure, combining to make it an incredible (and expensive) temptation. Just chalk up another one for Mr Gago. Drink to 2046.