The spectacular shiraz and semillon of Andrew Thomas may be held in the highest regard by Sydney wine freaks, but many of Adelaide's parochial drinkers would barely of passed a thought to them (sadly). In contrast to the Hunter Valley's other iconic semillons; Vat 1, Lovedale and ILR, Thomas's stunning Braemore Vineyard Semillon is typically released the year of its vintage; and of that, it's proved extremely successful.
A constricting tightness defines the 2010 Braemore's scent. Without much in the way of exuberance, it touches upon savoury suggestions of mineral and quartz, given a sharp lift by a spicy ping of grapefruit and lemon zest, which eventually penetrate right to the nasal passage's roof. In the mouth it's beautifully formed and cleaner than Singapore Zoo's toilet. Other than mineral and ripe lime, no other flavour descriptor comes to mind really; such is its clear expression of primary Hunter semillon, however, it's superbly poised and pristine, with an utterly spotless progression of plush, medium-weighted textures driven along by a minutely spritzy yet perfectly placed acid structure that reveals further traces of citrus and chalk.
ü+ The 2010 Braemore is about as youthful and aromatically shy as any Hunter semillon I've had lately. It's still perfectly formed and refreshingly addictive right now, but its real beauty won't take shape for some years yet. Drink 2015-2025.