Throughout 2007 I was smitten with the value for money offered by Gramp's 2004 Botrytis Semillon. My notes indicate I awarded it 94 points in April that year, while my cellar says I was happy enough to tuck some away. Fortunately, Gramp's more recent releases have continued the form set by the 2004 (2006-92pts, 2008-91pts), while the label's switch to screwcaps should only increase consumer confidence in its ability to age.
Now a glorious deep bronze/amber colour, this 7 year old dessert wine slowly unfolds a scent of honey biscuits with both sweet and savoury suggestions, as well as a pungent, rubbery aroma of ultra-ripe nectarines and melons parted by an additional note of honey ice cream. It's quite deep and richly scented, seemingly revealing an extra degree of honeyed goodness every time you stick your nose in. The palate follows suit with an incredibly full, rich and luscious presence of honeyed stonefruit flavours, which may have been exaggerated by a few years bottle age, but it pushes on with length and smoothness. A persistent toasty oak extract lingers underneath a faintly tart coverage of brisk acids; exciting the finish, before both these elements are overawed by a powerful wave of sweet stonefruit flavour that surges to the end.
ü+ Gramp's 2004 Botrytis Semillon is smooth, rich and in no way short of impact, but it's long and refreshing enough to pull it off. I'm so glad I have one left....... for now. Drink now.