If it's a savoury, complex, dry and nutty white you're after, then it's pretty hard to go past the lures of a Rhone blend. However, much like Tahbilk's industry standard marsanne, these wines generally require a few years bottle age to reveal the full extent of their wares.
Yering Station's 5 year old MVR (67/25/8) both surprised and satisfied me on opening, by revealing an appearance and scent indicative of youthful freshness. Lemon teacake, grapefruit and mineral notes highlight the aroma, with a complementary, classy touch of crushed almonds overlaid by suggestions of white flower and ginger. Conclusively, these styles continue to ask me; 'why aren't there more white Rhone blends in Australia?' In the mouth it shows cleanliness, restraint and a sense of calm to commence, allowing its reduced lemon/mineral and brine flavours to build progressively with nutty accents and a trace of viognier phenolics down the palate, before finally finishing with pungent melon-like fruit undertones and a prickly, drying acid balance. Complex yes, complete; perhaps not.
O I'm a bit in two minds about Yering's 2006 MVR. On one hand, I'd love to have another bottle to test in 3 years time, but something else inside of me says; 'why bother?' Drink to 2012.