Last year's welcomed news of Brown Brothers purchasing Tamar Ridge from Gunns Ltd cast blue skies over what was previously considered a grey cloud on Tasmanian wine. I love Tasmanian wine and I like the move by Brown Brothers, so I wish them all the best with their future endeavours on the Apple Isle.
There's quite a striking, deep golden colour to Tamar Ridge's 2007 Botrytis Riesling, which translates into a nose beset with some real botrytis influence. It's funky and almost rubbery, with an aroma of ultra-ripe stonefruits touched by hints of light honey, fig, faint citrus and something resembling burnt brown sugar/caramel. Any indication of riesling's primary lemon/lime citrus fruits have certainly been modified and developed here. On the palate it pumps a rich and luscious length of flavour, as its mouth-coating, even flow of orange/citrus marmalade characters morph into sticky toffee and apricot-like tones, which cumulatively display a near perfect, essential balance of rich sweetness and refreshing acidity throughout. Despite its substantial richness and impact, the whole package just seems so smooth, effortless and seamless, making it a dessert wine I'm more than happy to go back to after the first glass.
ü+ Made in a rich and ultimately satisfying style, the 2007 Kayena Vineyard is among the best Australian dessert rieslings I've had. It's actually surprised me. For all the hatred, Tamar Ridge certainly made some good wine while under the control of Gunns Limited.... Drink to 2013.