Guys like Ken Helm make Australia's wine industry a better place. They pick a special variety for their chosen site, nurture it, work it and excel at its production; with undying commitment, until the rest of the industry can't help but take notice. Sublime Canberra District riesling is Ken Helm's forte.
On first sniff, a clear, attractive scent of light spice (ground white pepper maybe?) emerges from Helm's 2010. It dissipates relatively quickly though, giving way to a tight fragrance of slate, white flowers, pear and citrus juice, which should unravel nicely with time. The palate delivers characters of lemon juice, green-edged pears and slate, with a slight undertone of white peach, but it's incredibly flavoursome and zesty, in a sour-citric riesling sense. Its tail whips across the back palate with a wonderful, nervy energy, imparted by a dry structure as assertive as South Australian models, but it's considerably less chalky, more sour-citric, mouth puckering and zippy.
ü Just as the name suggests, this is a classic, dry Canberra District riesling. It's emphatically defined by a racy, sour-edged structure now, but a good stint in the cellar will repay patience. Drink 2017-2022.