Orlando's Gramp's label produces one of Australia's most satisfying botrytis semillons in a style that's more than comparable to De Bortoli's Noble One. The Gramp's is practically as widespread as Australia's benchmark 'sticky' and even easier on the hip pocket, which makes me wonder why it isn't more commonplace on restaurant wine lists (we tend to get Woodstock's Sweet White as the Noble One 'alternative' in Adelaide).
This low-alcohol botrytis semillon shows off a pungent, funky aroma, and although it's difficult to pinpoint with adjectives I can't help but think of a rubber ball covered in a honey/marmalade blend and punctured by bark chips and crushed nuts, lying in a baking summer sun. Much to my pleasure the palate is far more recognisable. Rich and luscious, it oozes the length and depth of juicy, fresh stonefruit, marmalade and candied citrus flavours that typify the label when young, with a warm yet refreshing, sticky acidity that directs and cleanses the finish alongside further suggestions of stonefruit and glucose.
ü+ Another pleasingly rich and refreshing dessert wine from Gramp's which achieves everything you'd want for the price. Just think fun, sun, and perhaps even a bit of the burnt and the bizarre. Drink to 2013.