The in form De Bortoli produced two flawless examples of cheap pinot noir under their Windy Peak and Gulf Station labels from 2008, so it's been with great expectation I've awaited the release of their premier pinots from that same vintage.
Stylishly presented and utterly convincing, De Bortoli's 2008 Estate reveals a lightish yet gloriously direct and fragrant nose of raspberries and cherries lifted by spicy, savoury notes of earth and undergrowth, with a backing influence of cedar oak showing winemaking polish. Dry and savoury, its long, distinctly light-weight palate unravels compacted small berry and dry earth flavours that grow with an expansive fistful of bony tannins, leaving the mouth with suggestions of spicy sour-edged fruit, pencil shavings-like oak and a hint of forest floor. Its outstanding length, dryness, shape and structure thoroughly exceed the expectations of its modest price, while it should fill out beautifully with careful cellaring.
ü+ Whoa...whoa...whoa...wow! If De Bortoli experience more vintages like 2008 they could re-write the book on Australian pinot noir, in terms of affordability and scale of production. Drink to 2017.