New South Wales' inland Riverina district produces several benchmark expressions of Australian botrytis semillon. Apart from the obvious selection of De Bortoli's ever popular Noble One, McWilliam's also make a Riverina sticky that's worth a look for those in search of something different.
Showing a deep, rich golden-brown colour, the 2007 Morning Light opens to an equally rich nose scented with burnt toffee, apricots and marzipan with an assertive influence of vanilla oak evident throughout. On the palate it's also very rich, forward and unctuous, with a thick, lusciously set expression of honey, ripe stonefruit and marmalade flavour that enters with conviction. However, the finish lacks classic shape and freshness, as its fairly impressive length is drawn out more by enduring burnt toffee and dried apricot notes than clean, refreshing acidity, but it still makes for a very enjoyable, luscious dessert wine to be consumed over the shorter term.
ü McWilliam's 2007 Morning Light is a good sticky but if you have the money I'd opt for the 2007 Noble One instead, or if you don't have the money I'd go for the 2006 Gramps. Both of those should be more commonplace than this wine as well. Drink to 2012.