Since switching names from Reserve to Margaret, Peter Lehmann's achieved consistently spectacular results with their flagship Barossa semillon (2002-95pts, 2003-96pts). Has the Barossa's champion finally cracked the Hunter's code?
Mid/light-gold in colour, Peter Lehmann's 2004 Margaret is brightly layered with honeyed, waxy aromas of lanolin and lemon teacake backed by a faint nuttiness and even fainter notes of melon and freshly cut garden herbs. It enters the palate with smooth, rubbery texture, delivering a deeply complex array of buoyant, maturing semillon characters which sit slightly more on the mature side than the youthful. A simultaneously gentle and expressive extract of limey acids coat its lemon curd and beeswax flavours, allowing the wine to finish long, clean, savoury and briney, with a lingering richness of flavour.
ü+ In my opinion the richly flavoured and complex 2004 is maturing a fraction quicker than the previous two Margarets, but let's not forget; this exceptional dry white is Barossa semillon people! Drink to 2015.