Talented winemaker Tash Mooney's gained much praise for her Fox Gordon Viognier, so it's only natural that she'd try her hand at other emerging styles, such as the southern Italian variety fiano. Alongside the McLaren Vale based wineries of Coriole and Oliver's Taranga, Fox Gordon's is only the third Australian fiano I've had.
Fox Gordon's second fiano, the 2009, presents floral aromas of lavender, apricot kernel and pine nuts with a clean trace of grapefruit citrus adding zing. Its mouthfeel is the unexpected highlight here, with a smooth, creamy and sumptuous fullness that touches all of the mouth's cornices with opulent flow. Keeping the back label honest is a real depth and persistence of mid-palate character, as the wine unravels pure, olive oil-like flavours with nutty undertones, that extend with brisk acids and a lingering tone of grapefruit.
ü+ Fox Gordon's 2009 Fiano is a rather remarkable, truly individual Australian white wine within its price bracket. It's intrinsic, texture driven (beautifully labelled too) and the pick of my brief encounters with Aussie fiano. Just don't drink it too cold. Watch this space. Drink to 2011.