Industry veteran Andrew Margan produces this traditionally made, unoaked Hunter semillon from low yielding, forty year old vines planted on volcanic soils in Broke Fordwich.
Rather savoury, nutty and complex for such a young Hunter sem, Margan's 2008 is scented with a slightly quirky fragrance of green capsicum and Chinese five spice overlying its more typical lemon and grapefruit notes. The somewhat unconventional palate is deceptively savoury, with a side tingling acidity that wraps around its clean flavours of grass, grapefruit and mineral marked by faint smoky edges, before it finishes adequately long with a lingering zestiness and compelling tones of cooked herb and dry, Australian summer-style grass.
ü+ There may be fresher, cleaner young Hunter semillons around, but kudos to Margan for producing this wine already loaded with character, shape and intrigue. Considering its complementary winemaking, it must surely be considered a unique Australian expression of terroir. Predicting its lifespan right now isn't easy (it could really show me up). Drink to 2015.