Australian Wine Journal

ROCKFORD BLACK SHIRAZ 2010 disgorgement

2011-12-24T03:42:00.000-08:00

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $50-$120

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

Joseph or Black Shiraz? My mind shudders at the thought of picking a favourite sparkling red. I love the Joseph for its ability to deliver an elegantly styled, complex combination of maturity and freshness upon release practically every year (although my first bottle of the Langton's assisted 2011 disgorgement left me decidedly underwhelmed - fingers crossed for the second bottle), but at its very best, especially with a few years under its belt, I feel Rockford's ultra-rare beast reigns supreme.

Rockford's 2010 disgorgement is an essential sparkling shiraz, depicting true harmony of its schizophrenic nature. Finding the aromatic middle ground between sweet, fruity and savoury, as well as fresh and complex, it boasts an alluring depth of menthol tinged plums, blackberries and blueberries, risen by savoury whiffs of tobacco and smoky mocha/chocolate oak, while smelling so quintessentially Rockford all the way. Its palate bares the smooth balance and beautifully controlled, richly ripened fruit of a top-flight Barossa shiraz, as it oozes a wonderfully seamless and concentrated composition of savoury edged plum and dark berry flavours, which become more complex and appealling towards its fine, fleshy finish of cherry cola and sour-edged meaty notes. A dry, powdery backbone of ultra-fine tannins holds everything in place firmly, effectively ticking the last box for sparkling red perfection. I'd ideally give it another 3-5 years, if that's even possible...

ü+ Pure hedonistic joy. A signal to the world flaunting the showmanship of old-school Australian pride. My sparkling red pendulum has definitively swung full tilt back to the Barossa. The king is back baby! The king is back!!! Drink to 2017.

96 points

www.rockfordwines.com.au

BROWN BROTHERS PATRICIA PINOT NOIR & CHARDONNAY BRUT 2005

2011-12-22T00:41:00.000-08:00

- King Valley, VIC

- $36-$47

- Cork

- 13.0%alc

Perhaps it's because of their commitment to an enormous and affordable range hallmarked by diversity, but Brown Brothers' reserve level Patricia wines don't seem to get the recognition they might otherwise receive. Of particular merit is the vintage dated Patricia sparkling, which must go pretty close to knocking on the door of Australia's top ten renditions of the genre.

Helloooo... alive, complex and smitten by a wicked whiff of dry crispbread overlying honey ice cream and almond biscotti notes, then further enlivened by a springy lift of sour raspberries and grapefruit, the 2005 Patricia shows plenty of development and plenty of style, with all the balancing freshness I desire. Through the mouth it's simultaneously creamy, supple and crackly - incredibly crackly actually - as it pops like pop rock candy all the way down its full length of creamy honey biscuit flavour. It's all strung in by stringy lemony acids, working the wine into a superbly balanced, long and dry finish that's firmly stamped by a bitter/savoury mineral twist and a lingering impression of true finesse. It's top shelf Aussie fizz and it's in top form, right now. Ever wished you were drinking a magnum?

ü+ Much like Hardys' spectacular 2000 Sir James Tumbarumba (95pts), Brown Brothers' 2005 Patricia goes a long way to prove Tasmania isn't the be all and end all of Australia's elite sparkling class. Beautiful. Drink to 2013.

94 points

www.brownbrothers.com.au

TAYLORS JARAMAN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011

2011-12-20T23:21:00.000-08:00

- Margaret River, WA/Adelaide Hills, SA

- $18-$27

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

Blending 46% Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc with 54% from the Margaret River, Taylors' 2011 Jaraman combines fruit from an area well known for sav blanc with that from an area well known for its sem/sav blanc. I often wonder if bi-regional wines like this would be more likely to gain the interest of fans of both wine styles, or lose the interest of both? It's stretching the boundaries of relevance, but would a collaboration between André Rieu and Snoop Dogg appeal to fans of both the waltz and hip hop?

Intensely grassy and vegetal and altogether reflecting the stronger hand of its Margaret River component, this 2011 savvy also reveals softer scents of poached pears and passionfruit, as it unloads a fragrance with enough intensity to cut through the open-air odours of summertime outdoor drinking. Nothing if not predictable, its pungently varietal palate presents tastes of passionfruit and lychee immersed in sweat, before finishing in a suitably clean yet uninspiring manner that typically (in a commercial sauvignon blanc sense) lacks great shape and structure, although it does culminate with nice notes of lemon rind and kiwi fruit.

O Clean and varietal yet entirely predictable. I would say this is one for sauvignon blanc devotees but at $24.95 RRP, there are innumerous cheaper options available. Drink to 2012.

88 points

www.taylorswines.com.au

PRIMO ESTATE IL BRICCONE SHIRAZ SANGIOVESE 2010

2011-12-18T22:44:00.000-08:00

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $17-$25

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

A real sleeper within Australia's $20 reds class, Primo Estate's Il Briccone typically resembles a smoothly styled expression of ripe Australian shiraz, enlivened by an Italian inspired savoury twist. The 2010 sees a dominant shiraz component (with a good portion undoubtedly sourced from Primo's esteemed Angel Gully Vineyard at Clarendon) blended with 15% sangiovese, aged in older oak barrels for 14 months.

Really resonating out of the glass with dark aroma and colour, the 2010 Il Briccone packs a very ripe yet piercingly intense punch of spicy currants, dark plums and sour cherry, with trickles of melting chocolate bullets and tar providing an aromatic richness not too dissimilar to a stereotypical South Australian 'Reserve'; without the hefty oak, that is. Not for the first time, an Il Briccone palate startles me with its fullish, voluptuous body bursting with blackberries and sour dark plums, which move ever so smoothly into the mouth with a soft embrace of accessible tannin and slight, sour-edged acids. It's absolutely ready to roll and devoid of excessive hardness, although there is a very faint, savoury grit and curl towards the climax, most likely emanating from its sangiovese component. Other than that, it's straight up ripe and juicy, dark and delicious McLaren Vale shiraz of the early drinking variety.

ü At the darker end of the field, but still an ideal McLaren Vale quaff. I must ask though, has the standard price of a good Australian quaffer gone up recently? By about $5? It does taste that way... Drink to 2015.

90 points

www.primoestate.com.au

POOLE'S ROCK SEMILLON 2009

2011-12-16T01:48:00.000-08:00

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $36-$45

- Screwcap

- 10.7%alc

The Hunter Valley based Poole's Rock might've surprised a few people last year, when their Tasmanian pinot noir won Best Tasmanian Red Wine at the 2010 Royal Hobart International Wine Show. Fast forwarding to the present day, it's a balmy 32 degrees here in Adelaide, so the more traditional estate grown Poole's Rock Semillon seems a sound choice of drink. I love the moderate alcohol of these wines for such occasions.

Zingy, fresh and tight, with subtle, spicy flint aromas imparting a brisk edge to its lively lemon, pear and grass scents, the 2009 Poole's Rock delivers its very youthful Hunter nose with precision, balance and character. Initially, it's quite an upfront and juicy semillon, with shades of fresh grass and pear skin adding style to its clean core of mineral/citrus flavour, but its length of juicy fruit just loses a bit of momentum down the line. Its structure, however, doesn't, suggesting it could flesh out further with time. The high point is its chalky, lifting backbone of polished citric acids, which carry the wine with refreshing appeal, leaving a dusty note of chalk in the aftertaste. Give it time.

ü A very nice, structurally focused Hunter sem that like others of its ilk, should improve dramatically in the bottle. Drink 2015-2021.

92 points

www.poolesrock.com.au

EXTRAVAGANT JOY WITH A YOUNG, CRISP HUNTER VALLEY SEMILLON

2011-12-16T01:44:00.000-08:00

Shellfish

WESTEND 3 BRIDGES CHARDONNAY 2009

2011-12-15T00:39:00.000-08:00

- Riverina, NSW

- $17.95

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

In this modern age of wine consumer consciousness and theoretical values, warm climate chardonnay must be an increasingly hard sell to the sophisticated drinker. Despite the proud standing of Westend's 3 Bridges label as a benchmark of what can be achieved in Australia's warm inland river regions, I can't actually see any indication of regional sourcing on the label here. 'Wine of Australia'.

Abound with powerful, nutty aromas resonating from its cashew-like oak, the 2009 3 Bridges Chardonnay is no shrinking violet, as it punches out further aromatic big tones of ultra-ripe melons and sweet nectarines smoothed out by a touch of butterscotch residing beneath. It precariously covers the bases of bold, sweet, fruity and savoury, but smells okay while doing it. Rich, creamy stonefruits roll out its relatively buxom palate, which does show a fraction more poise than the nose. Length is good and although it finishes flavoursome, it's a shade loose and fuzzy to conclude, with energetic, sweet chardonnay fruits depositing brightness and softness, if not really discipline, elegance or finesse. In context of its origins, however, it's actually very well produced and clearly over delivers, making it easy to see why the 3 Bridges label is respected as it is.

O Not a subtle chardonnay, but definitively creamy, round, bold and overtly varietal. Perhaps not my type of hot weather white though. Drink to 2013.

88 points

www.westendestate.com.au

LECONFIELD SHIRAZ 2010

2011-12-12T22:12:00.000-08:00

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $20-$32

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Most likely due to its relationship with Richard Hamilton wines, the Coonawarra-based Leconfield draws its shiraz from McLaren Vale. You could argue that Leconfield should be sourcing their wines from closer to home, but on the basis of what's actually in and not behind the bottle, I have absolutely no problems with Leconfield's rather reliable and quite delicious McLaren Vale shiraz. It's interesting to note there's a small portion of Coonawarra shiraz in the 2010 added for its intensity.

Instantly recognisable and like running into an old friend on the street, the 2010 Leconfield Shiraz is buoyantly ripened, handsomely fruited and oaked; yet even, with juicy dark plum and melting chocolate scents rising through aromas of cherries, black licorice and smooth vanilla/cedar oak, in the openly accessible fashion that young McLaren Vale shiraz does so well. Its palate delivers what the nose promises, unfolding a smooth and silky mouthful of classically vibrant, sumptuous McLaren Vale shiraz fruit flavour ably moved along by an ever present undertone of melting chocolate. Its rich flavour permeates well into the finish, where it's greeted by a well ripened, initially concealed structure of glossy acids and velvety tannins, which grip and hold the wine right on cue without being detrimental to its voluptuous appeal. Length is good.

ü+ Once again, I'm left looking at another deliciously regional, classically medium-term McLaren Vale shiraz from Leconfield, and one that's certainly benefited from the nature of its season. It's great to see 'Australia's mid-palate' performing like this. Drink to 2020.

92 points

www.leconfieldwines.com

BATTLE OF BOSWORTH PURITAN SHIRAZ 2011

2011-12-11T21:09:00.000-08:00

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $25

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

A nature-lovin', preservative-questionin' friend of mine regularly quizzes me about wine and why sulphur dioxide is essential to its production. So, it was with his consistent inquisition and my own sense of curiosity, that I jumped at the chance to share a bottle of Battle of Bosworth's preservative-free Puritan Shiraz with him. I only wish I had thought of it last year, when the 2010 was around. Whatever the result, I feel good having purchased a wine from the organic shop for once.

Within the first hour, this SO2-free wine changes aroma like a woman changes outfit before a date. It's initially awkward, funky and unnervingly pongy, with a lingering scent I regret to describe as butt, but it quickly morphs into a more decipherable aroma of preserved fruits, with dates/prunes, dried apricots and boysenberry notes lifted by faint floral and musky edges, without the interference of oak. Relatively forward and smooth in a syrup-like fashion, its palate stains the mouth with dark and ripe, regional shiraz fruits and dirty, earthy undertones, but it could use more brightness, freshness and structural lift through the back section, while its length of fruit and overall impression fade off into a passive, sour/plummy conclusion. An optimist might see it as 'Joven' with a 'soft' finish, but others might just call it quaffing material.

O Despite my critique, I gotta applaud the guys at Battle of Bosworth. From a cold, wet vintage and without the use of SO2 or oak, they've managed to craft a shiraz of ample ripeness with enough freshness to make it more than slurpable. Novelty factor aside though, I must say it's not really my type of shiraz. I do wish I tried the 2010 first, but I'd still love to see more from this boundary-pushin' label in the future. Drink now.

85 points

www.battleofbosworth.com.au

SEPPELT DRUMBORG VINEYARD RIESLING 2011

2011-12-09T02:35:00.000-08:00

- Henty, VIC

- $29-$39

- Screwcap

- 11.0%alc

Famed for its spectacular minerality, tight acid structure and unique terroir, Seppelt's Drumborg resides at the cutting edge of Australia's modern riesling class, taking the challenge right up to long term classics like Grosset's Polish Hill and Leo Buring's Leonay.

Almost colourless, with an icy impression of coolness that restricts its water-tight, stony scents of minerals, quartz, lime and jasmine flower, the 2011 Drumborg's nose does shy away in its infancy, but that's of little concern right now. Now then. An incredibly pure, unblemished minerality graces the palate's first movement, preceding a clean taste of freshly squeezed lime juice that emerges through the middle and after sections, before its mineral notes regroup to accompany its genuinely elegant, beautifully measured citrus elements into a very long, classy finish exuding bright, mouth-watering acids and subtle notes of nashi pear and lemon sherbet. Although impressionable and well built up, its structure reveals a surprisingly calm, seamlessly woven exterior, staying true to the wine's purity and elegance whilst steering well clear of anything unforced or aggressive. It's so pure, understated, youthful and practically virginal, with a sophisticated composition shining throughout. Think of a princess in high school...

ü+ From what must now be one of Australia's most important riesling sites, Seppelt continue to do wonders with the Drumborg. The 2011 carries on the label's fine pedigree, with a minerality, composition, texture and structure rare in Australian riesling. A bottle aged release from this vineyard might be a novel idea but in the meantime, just watch it grow, slowly. Drink to 2029.

95 points

www.seppelt.com.au

TIM ADAMS RIESLING 2011

2011-12-07T22:44:00.000-08:00

- Clare Valley, SA

- $15-$22

- Screwcap

- 11.0%alc

A consistent overachiever and proud of it, Tim Adams Riesling personifies what the Clare Valley does best - stunningly dry riesling at a joke of a price. If you drink on a budget and haven't yet acquired the taste for dry Australian riesling, then it's about time you did.

Although unlikely to be a shock to drinkers of Clare riesling, aromas of lemons, apples and spice thrive in Tim Adams' 2011, all expressed with lightness, brightness, clarity and a polite balance. From first sip though, the palate takes centre stage, exuding positive reflections of region, variety and maker. Rich and mouth-filling, its zesty citrus and juicy apple flavours bare a dry and savoury, steely edge, yet the wine's most pleasing feature is a clearly defined, chiselled backbone of tight, chalky citric acids, which drill the mouth's upper reaches in the take-no-prisoners style Tim Adams fans must salivate over. Those chalky acids also impart taste through the finish, creating a mouth-watering aftertaste beset by notes of ultra-crisp green apple and lemon sherbet. It's salivating stuff from the 2011 vintage and oh-so Tim Adams.

ü+ There's a lot of new, more fashionable riesling labels bobbing up and down all over the place but Tim Adams continues to show how practiced expertise regularly pays off. The consistent quality of this overachieving wine over the last half dozen vintages is ridiculous. A real Australian riesling lovers special. Drink to 2023.

94 points

www.timadamswines.com.au

CLONAKILLA RIESLING 2011

2011-12-06T22:58:00.000-08:00

- Canberra District

- $26-$33

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

Summer's well and truly arrived in Adelaide, so it's about time I started seriously smashing down some new season's rieslings (responsibly smashing, of course). Over the next 3 nights I'll be looking at 3 of my very favourite Australian riesling labels - from 3 completely different states. The first model down the runway is a Canberra classic celebrating its 40th anniversary, from a maker that's probably better known for other things.

A little withdrawn and youthful yet rather stylish and blessed by a tight, steely minerality and a note of talcum powder, Clonakilla's 2011 blows a calm air of gentle, floral lavender scents over its cleanly restrained varietal fruits, which reflect white pear/apple flesh and lime pith. In a fashion typical of young riesling, its shapely, persistent palate actually contradicts its calm aromatics, by releasing a more sour-citric flavour profile empowered by its youthful intensity and brashness. It's long, racy and assertive, growing with a mouth-puckering sourness that does suggest some sweet 'n' sour aspects, but it's saved by an impressively long finish, drawn out by vivacious, lemony acids and a cascading flow of lime juice.

ü Perhaps moving away from some of Clonakilla's recent, chalkier offerings (which were probably more my style), the 2011 is a more sour-citric, yet varietally intense riesling, crafted well from a cool, wet season and set well for the cellar. Having said that, there certainly isn't anything wrong with cracking one now, especially if the mercury's creeping towards 100. Drink to 2021.

92 points

www.clonakilla.com.au

OZ WINE TOONS: THE SKETCHES AND OUTTAKES

2011-11-29T02:04:00.000-08:00

Oz Wine Toons recently celebrated its 50th incarnation, so I thought I'd take a momentary break from its madness, to slightly open the vault on what goes on behind the scenes...

When I first started Oz Wine Toons, I used to just go straight from my head onto the computer screen. But then, one day, I did a quick sketch first...

My first ever Oz Wine Toon draft was born out of the question; 'how do you draw a caveman?' I was so impressed (and surprised) by my ability to translate an image from paper to screen, that I kept going.... (this particular toon remains one of my personal favourites by the way).

Similarly, the second sketch was born out of the question; 'how do you draw a guy squished into a wine bottle?'

Looking at these two images, now, I'm not sure this toon actually required text.

Perhaps because this toon was directly inspired by a fellow blogger, the original sketch here says 'Wine Front', which eventually became 'Halliday' in the finished version. Likewise, #eatwithbacon was corrected, because wine is something we're much more likely to #drinkwithbacon.

I completely changed my mind on this toon. The original shows Jesus presenting his own wine at a tasting, which I changed to an image of The Last Supper, just because I wanted to try and draw something with a bit of class for once, where it ended up taking longer to complete than any other Oz Wine Toon. The joke didn't actually change, just the scene, and the sketch here shows several punch line alternatives I was playing around with.

Oz Wine Toons at its absolute crudest. In the finished version, I wasn't happy with the character's aim, as it looks like he's missed the bottle (completely unintended by me), so I inserted the text 'Dang, missed!'

One of my personal favourites, for its simplicity and bluntness. I wish I could come up with toons like this more often.

This toon is merely an exaggeration of something I experienced in real life. With a salesman, of course.

The original sketch here depicts a crashed plane in the background, which I removed for several reasons. Firstly, I didn't think it was necessary. Secondly, I felt the plane made it look like they'd only just arrived on the island, but most importantly, I just couldn't be bothered to draw it. Not sure what happened to the coconut though...

The image in the corner shows how I had to use a reference point for getting Ronald McDonald's colour scheme right. No such problems with Grimace though.

The original sketch here shows God thinking to himself; 'Hmm... think I'll go... blizzard this time', which I later changed to 'alien attack' because it sounds a lot sillier. I was also concerned this toon might look un-p.c. if an Australian vintage is actually destroyed by a blizzard one day...

It's rare that I think a finished, digital toon looks better than its original sketch, but with this one, I did.

Additionally, I often like to sneak sly images of some of my favourite Australian wines into Oz Wine Toons. This toon depicts Karra Yerta Riesling - a real 'blogger's favourite' in my opinion, hence its appearance on a blogger's bedside table.

This one just never made it. The finished toon would've shown the diners absolutely covered in overblown sparkling red.

Another one that didn't make it. Without the text, you can't actually tell what's going on here. I remember I was going to use it on Christmas, but a little too much Christmas cheer last year led to me doing a Boxing Day toon instead...

WATSON FAMILY VINEYARDS SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON 2011

2011-11-27T23:07:00.000-08:00

- Margaret River, WA

- $12-$16

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

The Watson Family Vineyards SBS is a collaborative wine project, born out of a desire to contradict popular opinion of sauvignon blanc.

Faintly nutty and green pea-like, with a restrained fruit scent of lemon citrus and some smoky elements, this Margaret River SBS draws a straight line down what I'd expect from the style, but it does it with good intensity, clarity and definition, all of which I expect from the style anyway. Its palate really holds back on sauvignon blanc's pungent, fruity aspects, instead opting towards a more funky, savoury, mineral and brine-like rendition of passionfruit flavour, with a viscous feel marked by a certain looseness and a subtle tartness, the latter of which lingers softly through its aftertaste of kiwifruit and brine. For all its pleasing funk, it just lacks the tightness, shape and driving acidity of the Margaret River's best, but it's definitely one of the more interesting Australian interpretations of the blend available for under $15.

ü If you're the type of person who never spends more than $15 on your beloved sauvignon blanc, you might find interest in this textured, funky wine. Whether or not you'll prefer it to your favourite cheap and cheerful Kiwi savvy is another thing. It might actually be better suited to the serious drinker on a budget (looking for an SBS?), rather than the quaffer looking for something different. A middle ground for now. Drink to 2012.

89 points

www.watsonfamilyvineyards.com

FREEMAN RONDINELLA CORVINA SECCO 2007

2011-11-25T01:18:00.000-08:00

- Hilltops, NSW

- $30

- Screwcap

- 15.0%alc

Freeman's 2004 Aged Release Secco (93pts), an Amarone inspired wine where the rondinella and corvina grapes are partially dried in a prune dehydrator, has been one of the finds of the year for me thus far. Perhaps the only thing holding back the absolutely delicious 2004 Secco from even greater heights, was the lack of a truly authoritative tannin structure, a quality which, Dr Brian Freeman happily informs me he's successfully captured in the 2007. Well, let's have a look-see then...

This is the third bottle of 2007 Secco I've had and I'm finally starting to get it. Early on, it smells thickly confected and jarringly awkward, but let it decant for at least 6 hours and watch it transform into an ever changing creature of complexity, masculine beauty and intrigue. It's at once meaty, leathery and spicy, richly ripened and a flamboyant brute, baring a gruff tone of smoky oak to add savoury grunt to its deeply aromatic, valid currant-like fruit and brown leafy scents. The palate really puts its foot to the floor, leaving any concept of subtlety behind as it deposits the imposingly firm, penetrative, spiralling and intense tannin structure Dr Freeman must surely seek with this wine. Its all-encompassing backbone takes centre stage in its youth, framing and directing its smoothly set, luscious flavours of savoury-edged blackberries, redcurrants and smoky chocolate oak with real authority and drive, allowing a sly note of aniseed to linger through the finish. Rough and rugged, it's definitely a man, and almost enough to make me turn...

ü+ A real living, breathing beast. A ringing endorsement of the benefits of decanting, time, patience and repeat consumption for wine. The 2007 Secco may not be as immediately delicious as the 2004 Aged Release (naturally), but it's perhaps even more up my alley, as it's a much more serious, longer term prospect, with a spectacular tannin structure and shape rare in Australian reds. Dr Freeman's closing in on the white light here. Cellar it. Drink 2017-2025.

94 points

www.freemanvineyards.com.au

TYRRELL'S SINGLE VINEYARD BELFORD SEMILLON 2006

2011-11-23T23:05:00.000-08:00

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $25-$37

- Screwcap

- 11.0%alc

Made from a single vineyard planted in 1933, the Belford was the last of Tyrrell's semillon to be picked in 2006. Now 5 years old, this 2006 Belford proudly wears 4 gold medals on its bottle, covering 4 different years between 2006 and 2010, but that amount pales in comparison to the 20+ shiny things flamboyantly flashed around by the 2005 Vat 1.

Lively as a drunk teen at schoolies but much fresher, with classically regional, mineral infused lemon/lime zest and quartz aromas stringing through emerging, savoury notes of lightly toasted white bread and flint, the 2006 Belford appears a barely adolescent semillon, which is absolutely revelling in its aromatic vitality and clarity right now. Moderately juicy flavours of green melons, pear and citrus introduce the palate, before a smooth, waxy complexity joins its mid-palate announcement of grassy/herbal tones to move the wine into a long, bright finish sparked by a penetrative and succulent, yet fairly ripe Hunter acidity.

ü+ Although not set for the super long term, I can still see the 2006 Belford gaining wonderfully textural, beeswax-like complexity over the medium term. It's well worth a look for the cellar, so long as there's not a 2005 HVD (94pts) sitting next to it in the bottle shop (as I saw). Drink to 2018.

92 points

www.tyrrells.com.au

THERE'S GOLD IN THAT THAR VAT!

2011-11-23T22:59:00.000-08:00

Tyrrell's 2005 Vat 1 Semillon. A modern day show winner of almost embarrassing proportions. Wholly deserving though.

CALABRIA PRIVATE BIN AGLIANICO 2009

2011-11-21T23:04:00.000-08:00

- Riverina, NSW

- $14.95

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Strange as it may sound to some, Bill Calabria's Westend Estate is behind some truly groundbreaking reds at the moment, made from Riverina fruit, and sold for $15. Alongside Australia's only Saint Macaire (an ultra rare variety with Bordeaux origins), the shamelessly Italian inspired Calabria Aglianico is growing a steady following for its savoury nature, firm structure and food friendliness. Much like the Calabria's themselves, these Private Bin releases are doing a lot to help reshape the future of Australia's warm inland river regions.

Oh my. On first sniff the Calabria shows promising signs of being a textbook, new age Aussie quaffer, as the late ripening aglianico has produced an earthy and floral, rather savoury and feral wine by Riverina standards, that still underpins its fragrance with a slightly leathery expression of classically sun-drenched, ripe dark plums and cherries marked by dry cedar oak. Its palate unleashes a comforting mouthful of similarly dark, berry, cherry and plum flavour, capably enveloped by a back end of dusty, savoury tannins, forthright acids and a lingering note of licorice, but it doesn't quite live up to initial promise, because I detect a faint diluteness to its taste. It's a grievance that can easily be overlooked for $15, because the wine's good body, structure and length all meld together in vivid harmony, making it such an easy red to slide down the back of the throat. So long as you can handle the tannin, of course.

ü+ Despite one niggle, there's so much potential on display here, particularly in terms of aglianico's character and its suitability to the hot Australian sun. Given time, experience and increased vine age, I think the Calabria Aglianico could establish a new benchmark for inland reds. Drink to 2016.

90 points

www.westendestate.com

MCWILLIAM'S INHERITANCE CHARDONNAY 2010

2011-11-20T22:29:00.000-08:00

- South Eastern Australia

- $4-$11

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

The surprise packet Inheritance Chardonnay from 2009 gifted me much more drinking pleasure than I'd usually expect from a $5 wine. Were it not for a touch of heat through the finish, it would've scored even higher than the 87 points I awarded it 50 weeks ago. Taking that into account, it's good to see McWilliam's wound the alcohol back in the 2010.

Once again, it's hard to deny what's on offer here for much the same price as non-alcoholic chardonnay. Although not as well defined as the 2009, the 2010 Inheritance does reveal an inoffensive, light fragrance of citrus rind and kiwi fruit, smoothed out by a sly note of nut oil. If anything, it's a little too light on the nose, as it seems to lack varietal punch. This quibble carries over to the palate, where its cleanly textured, under-ripe melon and lemon tart flavours become more citric accented down the line, courtesy of a brisk influence of bitey, grapefruit-like acids. It's well made for the price and shows a relatively kind transition from smooth entry to crisp finish, it just needs more flavour, that's all. Drink cold.

O A very plausible, clean expression of what's essentially a generic white wine. Even though that may be its purpose in life, I was hoping for something a bit more 'chardonnay-like', like its predecessor. Drink to 2012.

85 points

www.mcwilliamswinesgroup.com

STEFANO LUBIANA COLLINA 2008

2011-11-16T23:11:00.000-08:00

- Southern Tasmania

- $60-$75

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

When it comes to maintaining a high standard of quality, across an entire range, year in, year out, Stefano Lubiana is one of Australia's strictest. Mediocre clearly isn't in the man's vocabulary. Atop his whites sits the Collina, a 'best of the best' chardonnay produced only in exceptional seasons (2003 was the only release prior to 2008). When Mr Lubiana says 'best of the best', you know he means business...

The first thing you'll notice about the Collina is its gorgeous label, and then, of course, what an equally gorgeous wine it is. It's savoury and stylish foremost, yet refined and intricately detailed, unfolding a clean and clear whiff of biscuity oak bitten by pure, mineral scents of grapefruits and lemons, with carefully placed suggestions of white flower, nougat, hazelnuts and cinnamon adding real pizzaz in a wonderfully controlled way. For a fleeting moment, my mind is cast to Champagne. That thought clearly dissipates in the mouth, where it bedazzles with an arrestingly complex yet perfect marriage of intense, penetrative structure and texture, the latter of which reveals an ethereal suppleness and fragility. To say elegant might be understating its smooth, seamless movement of restrained flavour, which slowly unravels pear, crisp vanilla biscuit, apple and citrus, all checked by stunningly clean, mouth-watering, racy acids that match its textural touch for sheer thrill. Contrasting notes of nuts and lemon sherbet in the aftertaste only add to its pleasure. I could write an essay on this, but common sense says no...

ü+ I've been wondering who's going to step forward and claim the as yet undecided crown of Tasmanian chardonnay - one of Australia's most underrated and promising modern styles. Stefano Lubiana's Collina steps forth like a casanova at a hen's party. I've never had a Tasmanian chardonnay like it. Let's just hope it's not another 5 years till the next one comes round. Brilliant. A real keeper. Drink to 2018.

96 points

www.slw.com.au

STEFANO LUBIANA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2009

2011-11-14T23:33:00.000-08:00

- Southern Tasmania

- $45-$55

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Easily in my top handful of Tasmanian pinot noir, Stefano Lubiana's Estate takes off from his delicious Primavera Pinot Noir and betters it - just as it should - by way of savoury complexity, texture, structure and longevity. I often wonder how many other producers would be content to classify such a wine as reserve, which of course, the Estate isn't. The 2006 was a beauty (95pts).

Beautifully bright and fragrant, with succulent dark cherry and strawberry scents bursting from the glass alongside a joyous lick of caramel oak, imbibed by a low-tone of game and a high-tone of freshly picked garden herb, the 2009 Estate doesn't quite possess the savoury complexity or finesse of the very best vintages, but its sumptuous varietal nature smells an unabashed treat. It tastes that way too, rolling out rich, almost palate staining for pinot, silky layers of cherry, strawberry and then rhubarb flavour, with the onus being on its youthful freshness and texture. Wonderfully slight, velevty tannins, which meld seamlessly into its silken core, perk up the finish beside a refreshing acidity, leaving a juicy taste of small forest berries edged by cedar to linger long into the mouth.

ü Clever winemaking from Mr Lubiana - again (does this man know how to make bad wine?). His 2009 Estate is a richer pinot noir with the depth, backbone and capacity to age, yet the sensuality to drink now. It's a classic 'each-way bet'. Drink to 2017.

93 points

www.slw.com.au

OZ WINE TOONS

2011-11-13T20:58:00.000-08:00

FREYCINET PINOT NOIR 2009

2011-11-10T22:28:00.000-08:00

- East Coast Tasmania

- $63-$80

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

According to Langton's, who chose Freycinet as the sole Tasmanian pinot noir in their latest classification of Australian wine; 'The family-owned Freycinet Vineyard is recognised by collectors as the most consistent and distinguished producer of ultra fine Tasmanian Pinot Noir.' Stefano Lubiana and Domaine A immediately spring to mind as other names to consider, but wines like Freycinet's 2009 really hammer home why the east coast producer is a benchmark of Tasmanian style.

Showing lovely, spicy hits of clove and star anise that rise from the glass with stunning definition, Freycinet's 2009 displays a dark and dusty, regional set of sweetly fruited and savoury attractions, meshing redcurrants, cranberries and musk stick with meaty, herbal influences and some fragrant smoky oak. It's deep and beguiling yet intensified by its high toned spice and herbal elements, but the palate is where its true complexity takes form. Combining a fluffy suppleness with a concealed depth of dark cherry kernel, herb, clove and sour-edged red berry flavour, it's at once submissive, electrifying and pert, as its understated qualities are zipped up and driven long by an attractively youthful, crisp outer shell of structure, which provides wonderful extension courtesy of slick 'n' shiny acids peppered by ground spice-like tannins, leaving notes of nutty oak and a tart taste of cranberry to pass. Age worthiness is clearly on the cards here. It's wickedly Tasmanian.

ü+ A true, essential Tassie pinot, done the Freycinet way. All it needs is time and I think we'll be looking at a modern day Tasmanian masterpiece. Drink 2013-2021.

95 points

www.freycinetvineyard.com.au

TYRRELL'S SINGLE VINEYARD STEVENS SEMILLON 2007

2011-11-09T22:30:00.000-08:00

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $20-$35

- Screwcap

- 12.2%alc

Every time I attend a tasting with a decent line-up of semillon, it bedazzles me how much the Tyrrell's wines stand out. Whether the bottle be Vat 1, Stevens, HVD, Belford or anything with Tyrrell's printed on a white label, these time proven wines are always worth a look.

A real flinty kick rips the 2007 Stevens out of the glass, dragging with it scents of melons, lemon, minerals and pouch tobacco with an emerging savoury edge. It's lively, balanced and clearly opening up on the nose, reflecting Tyrrell's experience with releasing these wines at a good age. Its palate packs some rich, round, almost buttery regional character, revealing classic lemons and lanolin with juicy undercurrents and a grapefruit-like extension, but despite its fine push of flavour, it doesn't really glisten and hold through the finish, lacking the searing acidity and briskness of the very best vintages. Moving line and structure aside for a moment, its richness and taste provide fine drinking for the now.

ü From a very early vintage (third week of January!), Tyrrell's have crafted a higher alcohol than usual semillon (12.2% makes it the most alcoholic Hunter sem I've covered on this website), containing the richness, softness and classic combination of youth and maturity to make it a good early drinker. Drink to 2016.

91 points

www.tyrrells.com.au

WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2010

2011-11-08T23:07:00.000-08:00

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $16-$25

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The modern day Wolf Blass winery finds itself in an ambiguous state. Perched somewhere in TWE's overgrown family tree, Wolf Blass still maintains its place as a household name with Australian drinkers, but its ever changing range and high end products hardly excite the self respecting serious consumer. Really, all-encompassing wine quality must cut through marketing and gadgetry for the once exalted status of Wolf Blass to return. Wines like the 2007 White Label (94pts) and 2010 Gold Label Chardonnays are taking things in the right direction, but it is reds this brand is famous for...

Nutty, creamy, yeasty, perhaps vanilla ice cream cone-like and full of bright, complex character, the 2010 Gold Label Chardonnay sits right in the label's modern groove, supporting its obvious, yet charming inputs with restrained fruit scents of white nectarines, melons, lemon and spice. Showing more control of its fruit than earlier outings, its creamy palate is announced by an upfront savoury richness, pushing clean notes of nuts, brioche and lemon/lime yoghurt into a smoothly set, softly structured finish, whose length and acidity just lack the penetration and biting tightness to instigate real wow factor. Don't mind that though, because its value and style both receive big ticks.

ü+ With so much going on within Wolf Blass it would be easy to ignore the Gold Label Chardonnay. I don't know why, as its character, rich texture and balance make it so easy to like. It's an ideal entry point for proper Aussie chardonnay. Drink to 2015.

91 points

www.wolfblass.com.au

MID-WEEK MEAT & VEG FOR A TEXTURAL, DRY AND SAVOURY ADELAIDE HILLS CHARDONNAY

2011-11-08T23:05:00.000-08:00

Pork scotch fillet with Chinese five spice and herb butter

OXFORD LANDING ESTATES CABERNET SAUVIGNON & SHIRAZ 2010

2011-11-07T22:22:00.000-08:00

- Riverland/South Australia

- $5-$12

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

Linked by ownership to Yalumba, Oxford Landing is a Riverland based brand whose oldest, original estate plantings happen to be cabernet sauvignon, with some vines dating back over 40 years. The back label of their 2010 Cabernet Shiraz heroically states; 'vegan and vegetarian friendly', causing me to wonder if the wine displays any warm-climate meaty aspects...

Meaty aspects? Hmm... maybe. But it's not that overcooked roast meat character prevalent to overhung, sun-drenched, warm-climate red grapes, rather, it's cured meat and herbs, spicy salami even, expressed in a style perhaps more typical to pinot noir (!?). Also in the nose are simple but fruity scents of cleanly ripened blackberries and raspberries, underlining a satisfying aroma devoid of harshness or heat. Conclusively, it's more interesting and composed than one might expect from a $7 red, which echoes into a palate whose silky softness and surprising suppleness immediately disperse any preconceived stereotypes, whilst providing an almost shameful satisfaction. Its primary announcement of charmingly fresh, juicy blackberries and red plums run smoothly into a finish baring a tiny twist of acid crunch at the end, where there's just enough structure to silence the astute without deterring the quaffers. It's a big win for anyone wanting change from a tenner.

ü+ Enlivened by balance, mouthfeel and freshness, Oxford Landing's 2010 Cabernet Shiraz is just a wonderful little red. It's simple but delicious and oh so gluggable. Go on... Drink to 2013.

89 points

www.oxfordlanding.com

MAJELLA THE MUSICIAN CABERNET SHIRAZ 2010

2011-11-06T22:59:00.000-08:00

- Coonawarra, SA

- $15-$22

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

After mirroring the fluctuations of recent South Australian vintages, Majella's lightly oaked Musician has rebounded to top form in 2010, reaffirming its position as a chieftain amongst Coonawarra's everyday drinking class.

Dark, evenly ripened and altogether smelling deeper than previous Musicians, the 2010 still buzzes in with a fragrant vitality, or a regional intensity, revealing a vivid aroma of mint soaked in cassis and raspberry juice with shades of vanilla and white pepper, indicating subtle hints of wood and Coonawarra shiraz (44%). The palate accommodates the nose, delving with a touch more concentration and darkness than usual, however, it bares a radiating brightness to its essence-like blackcurrant, dark plum and raspberry flavours, which persist along a cleverly pitched, light-medium bodied framework aided by great length and a refreshing finish emitting a particularly polished, pulsating acidity. There is a faint, valid sour-edged meatiness through the aftertaste, but it's cloaked in sumptuous chocolate/blackcurrant flavour and emancipating acids. In all respects it's a much more complete wine than other Musicians. It's immediately delicious and then some. Top value.

ü+ Majella have taken full advantage of what could be the best Coonawarra vintage for years. The 2010 Musician contains the light, bright, racy attributes we've come to love from the label, yet still manages to fill in a few holes the other wines didn't. Excellent, modern and intensely regional. A high note for the Musician. So drinkable. Drink to 2016.

91 points

www.majellawines.com.au

WOODLANDS 'MARGARET' 2008

2011-11-04T22:59:00.000-07:00

(Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Malbec)

- Margaret River, WA

- $32-$45

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

I continue to be gobsmacked by the value of Woodlands' deeply complex, perfumed and elegant Margaret Reserve, arguably Australia's most undersold cabernet blend. Even in a slightly off year (only by Woodlands' own lofty standards), it's simply irresistible at such a ludicrous sale price.

Absolutely enchanting, with a piercing scent of dry, spicy cedar wood cutting through its soft floral perfume of crushed dark berries edged by black olives, licorice and dry leaf, the 2008 Margaret reveals a complex combination of both aggressive and feminine attributes on the nose, but it's a happy marriage indeed. When it enters the mouth, it does it graciously and sensually, unravelling a deep, silky and supple array of blackberry, mulberry and dark cherry flavours which emanate with a seductive smoothness, depositing tastes of violets and dried herbs over melting chocolate through the finish. Complementing its progression is a seamlessly integrated, velvet-like expression of ripe tannins and fresh acids, whose inputs harness and maneuver the wine elegantly, without displaying a forceful impression of strength. It just lacks the exceptional length and tightness of the best vintages, but at $32, who's complaining?

ü+ Deliciously ripened, deep, sensual, silky and very stylish, the 2008 Margaret is thoroughly Woodlands. Young cabernet blends like this are rare in Australia. Embrace them when you can, and they might grow. Drink to 2020.

94 points

www.woodlandswines.com

WOODLANDS

2011-11-04T16:11:00.000-07:00

South Australian Woodlands fans rejoice! Thanks to Kane from Landhaus in the Barossa Valley, Woodlands' spectacular wines have found new distribution into our state, where they're literally finding their way into a number of our retailers. Hurrah! One such retailer is Melbourne Street Fine Wine, who recently invited Kane to come in and show off his stuff.

Woodlands' high end cabernet styles display a savoury elegance, perfume and deep, supple, texturally inspired palates which conceal their formidable tannin structures to a tee. Cabernet of such quality is rare in Australia, particularly outside of the Margaret River's Wilyabrup sub-region. If you're living in Adelaide and haven't yet discovered Woodlands reds, now is as good a time as any to do so.

On a duller note, I continue to be uninspired by Woodlands' entry level wines. Yes, for under $20 they're fair value, but the Chardonnay is a bit simplistic, the vintages of Cabernet Franc Merlot I've had appear raw and edgy, and the Cabernet Merlot, which regularly receives high praise from numerous wine critics, has never quite tipped the hat for me. The 2009 Cabernet Merlot looks to have taken a step in my direction though, in more of a ripe and juicy, dark bruiser of a true BBQ style, but conclusively, I feel there's an all too significant gap between the quality of these wines and their more expensive stablemates.

It is here I must mention I absolutely adore what Woodlands does with their premium Bordeaux inspired styles. I continue to believe the Margaret Reserve is the most ethereal sub-$40 cabernet blend in this country. Its quality makes it impossible for me to ever fork out the extra $60 for Woodlands' undeniably spectacular Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. The Reserve de la Cave Cabernet Franc and Malbec, although rare, are insanely good Australian wines and well worth seeking out. I couldn't help but ask Kane if he picked up any bottles of either Reserve de la Cave for South Australian distribution - he did - and they all found their way into the wine cellar at the Victory Hotel. It's about time I organised another dinner down at Sellicks Beach methinks. . .

Woodlands tasting notes are posted below

Woodlands Chardonnay 2010 ($17) Made in a simple, barely wooded style and it shows it, and perhaps excessively so. Its fruit focused, fresh melon, lemon citrus and grapefruit characters end with slightly sharp acids. It lacks complexity in all of its elements but might make for a fair enough quaff, if not much else. I'd love to see Woodlands evolve this wine, with more winemaker induced complexity, to compete stronger with the likes of Vasse Felix and Brookland Valley when it comes to cheap Margaret River chardonnay. 87

Woodlands Chloe Chardonnay 2010 ($42) If the standard wine required more winemaker induced complexity this took it too far the other way. Ensconced by nutty, buttery, popcorn-like oak, its peachy fruit barely gets a look in. Likewise, its round and forward palate is controlled by creamy oak nuance, ending short, altogether loose and without necessary brightness or persistence of fruit. It's hard to love and disappointing for the label. Were I Lincoln, I'd be tempted to buy the two Woodlands Chardonnays for the blending bench. Where one fails, the other succeeds. 88

Woodlands Cabernet Franc Merlot 2010 ($17) 51/49 blend. Shows raw edges to its very ripe, dark blackcurrant and cherry fruits with a hint of cinnamon. Its palate also ends raw and hard edged, with its finish of coarse tannins seeming quite out of sync with its ultra-ripe, if fractionally flat, currant fruit fore palate. It's quite disjointed and unbalanced. Another let down from Woodlands' Cab Franc/Merlot, courtesy of the people who make Australia's best straight cabernet franc in my opinion. I'm pretty sure the last disappointment I had from this label was around a 50/50 blend as well. 86

Woodlands Cabernet Merlot 2009 ($17) Very ripe, juicy dark plums and currants, composed in a rich, juicy, crowd pleasing style perfectly set for the BBQ. In some respects, it's almost South Australian like. It has good length of medium-full bodied dark fruits, with a charming balance of vanilla oak to smooth it out and lithe tannins to tighten it up. Tasty. (full review soon) 90

Woodlands Margaret Reserve 2008 ($32) 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 11% Malbec. Beautifully ripened and even, with true perfume and a savoury overlay to blackcurrants, cherries, violets and cedar/mocha oak. Its classy palate exudes exceptional suppleness, depth and silky flavour, finishing bright and savoury with excellent length and fine, dry tannins. It's not the most gang-bustingly brilliant Margaret Reserve I've had, but at $32 each, I had no problems in escorting a couple of these back to my place. (full review soon) 94

Woodlands Nicolas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($99) Wonderfully deep, with a chocolatey accent to its blackberries, mulberries, game and polished vanilla/cedar oak with maybe a hint of fresh mint leaf. It's rich and luscious, concentrated and medium to medium-full, yet beautifully measured and even. Its palate drives long and precise, with a near wave-like effect of silky, rich, fleshy dark fruit flavour ending with a truly balanced structure. The only problem I have with this wine, which I always have with this wine, is it's hard to buy one when I could have 3 Margaret Reserves for the same price. Excellent wine though. Wonderful Margaret River cabernet. 95

TAYLORS JARAMAN RIESLING 2011

2011-11-03T23:40:00.000-07:00

- Clare Valley/Eden Valley, SA

- $17-$28

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

Of all Taylors' cross-regional Jaraman wines, the Clare/Eden Valley riesling makes the most sense to me. The characteristics of each region's riesling sit next to each other like beautiful sisters, whilst geographically, they're much closer aligned than the Clare Valley and Coonawarra, or the Adelaide Hills and Margaret River for that matter.

Aside from a light, limey whiff of lavender and mineral, Taylors' 2011 Jaraman is steadfastly closed on the nose, giving off little in the way of fragrant lift or perfume. Its palate is also defined by a bell-clear expression of essential citrus flavours, but it's long, clean and refreshing, with lingering notes of lime zest and lime pith dragging out a fine conclusion I'd perhaps credit more to its Eden Valley component (41%). In addition to its persistent fruit the finish also shows a smooth movement of zesty, sherbet-like acids, however, its backbone just lacks the shape and authority of South Australia's best rieslings, which, at $24.95 RRP, it's almost competing against.

O The 2011 Jaraman is quite tasty in an approachable varietal sense and not bad drinking at its low-end price, especially with many a warm day looming around the corner. It's certainly a bright spark within the Taylors range, suggesting the brand might do well to focus further on its rieslings. Drink to 2019.

91 points

www.taylorswines.com.au

OZ WINE TOONS

2011-11-03T02:28:00.000-07:00

High end glassware round the water cooler

S.C. PANNELL GRENACHE 2009

2011-10-30T23:59:00.000-07:00

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $42-$58

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

S.C. Pannell Grenache is a real buzz wine at the moment, racking up high praise from practically anyone fortunate enough to encounter one. Following on from his award winning 2009, Stephen Pannell's 2010 just won 'Best Grenache' at the McLaren Vale Wine Show, making it back to back local victories for this emerging classic.

Softly perfumed, with a vivaciously ripened yet beautifully controlled, wildly open aroma of earthy redcurrants, kirsch, prunes, blueberries, cloves and cinnamon gently backed by older oak, the multi-faceted nose of S.C. Pannell's 2009 Grenache displays a complex combination of pinot-like graciousness with McLaren Vale intensity and sweet fruit. All its elements sing in harmony, with no one trying to steal the show, as it literally revels in the warmth of its season. Its palate is just so soft, silky and unforced, with an ethereal suppleness rare in Australian grenache, yet throughout the movement its gritty, rustic accent of juicy, jammy forest berry flavours are equally checked by an ultra-fine coverage of dry, bony tannins, which deliver the wine to a fine, persistent finish of outstanding focus, marked by both sweet fruit and savoury aspects. It's pointless to pick a high point here; texture, structure, length, impeccable oak handling, they're all winners. Basically, she's downright sexy and about as good as McLaren Vale grenache gets.

ü+ It's eminently justifiable consecutive Stephen Pannell wines have won two straight McLaren Vale grenache trophies, because this increasingly popular style might've just unearthed its new champion. World class. The modern face of traditional McLaren Vale? Drink to 2021.

96 points

www.pannell.com.au

HEEMSKERK CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2007

2011-10-28T00:16:00.000-07:00

- Coal River Valley, TAS

- $48-$65

- Cork (Diam)

- 12.0%alc

The reinvented Heemskerk brand marks a serious attempt by Treasury Wine Estates to move into high end Tasmanian wine. At present, the Heemskerk range constitutes a southern Tasmanian collection of single region riesling, chardonnay and pinot noir, as well as a new challenger to Australia's super premium sparkling class. From packaging to palate, these wines are looking pretty smart.

Practically as foamy as a bubble bath at Hugh Hefner's place, with a really racy, minute line of bead and fine lace, the Heemskerk begins its display with a pale, youthful colour, depicting a typically classy visual entrance. Its nose is real steely and tight, giving away little in its infancy. There are quiet suggestions of spiced pear, minerals, hazelnut and lemon cake, which precede a palate with more mineral focus than some sparkling mineral waters I've had. It's undoubtedly youthful and tight, with a crystal-clear expression of crisp apples, grapefruits and strawberry driven down a very strict line of tightly coiled flavour, working its way into a bone dry finish marked by brisk effervescence, lingering citric/mineral aspects and a tangy note of sherbet. Its crisp backbone and understated elegance through mineral complexity are fine, sizing it up well as an aperitif, but personally, I was looking for something a bit more outrageous. Patience is definitively recommended.

O TWE Arras? I don't think so. Aside from the obvious, in that it's much younger than any Arras I've had, it appears to be constructed very differently, relying more on restraint, mineral focus and freshness, and altogether looking more like a rather expensive Australian party starter. Time will tell how the two compare. Drink 2015-2019.

92 points

www.heemskerk.com.au

JACOB'S CREEK RESERVE CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2008

2011-10-26T23:33:00.000-07:00

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $12-$23

- Cork (Diam)

- 12.0%alc

My first review from the newly branded Jacob's Creek's Reserve range wasn't exactly a ringing endorsement of the brand's switch to single region wines, but happily, the second one is. Taking things up a notch from the very credible 2007 (90pts), the 2008 Reserve sparkling displays outstanding value for money once again.

A very gentle, elegant fragrance of understated complexity adorns the fragrance of the Jacob's Creek Reserve, as it opens to a clean and classy, floral aroma of buttered white bread, white pears and vanilla, risen by scents of ginger and cinnamon in a fashion that conclusively defies its often discounted price. Charmingly lean and dry, its palate chisels out a foamy effervescence bound by crisp acids, ensconcing a refreshingly mineral driven flavour profile of green apples, lemons and grapefruit trailed by emerging notes of lemon zest and light, savoury spice. For a moment the whole package seems so perfect and almost surreal, as its finish grips to the mouth with a clingy, steely tightness, but then, it just doesn't persist with the authoritative length of better wines. It's a minor quibble though, effectively brought out by someone expecting too much.

ü+ Flaunting some very clever, beautifully conceived winemaking, the 2008 Jacob's Creek Reserve is an ambitious little sparkling that initiates promising signs of true greatness, but just falls short. It's a dry, tight, cheap aperitif, made right in my own personal eyes-to-the-side style. Drink to 2013.

90 points

www.jacobscreek.com.au

CURRENCY CREEK ESTATE PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY RESERVE BRUT

2011-10-25T23:04:00.000-07:00

- Currency Creek, SA

- $13-$19

- Zork Spk

- 12.5%alc

Currency Creek is a relatively humble South Australian wine region, found some 80km south of Adelaide near the popular tourist town of Goolwa, or about 50km east of Brian Croser's Parawa vineyard in the Southern Fleurieu. Ballast Stone would have to be the best known producer in the region, although a lot of their production comes from nearby McLaren Vale.

Quite simple and sweet-edged, Currency Creek Estate's sparkling rosé reveals a bronzey fragrance of big strawberries and brandied cherries with a hint of honey stick. It's decisively pinot dominant but it lacks outright freshness and complexity, while its stylistic statement doesn't exactly adhere to my personal taste. The palate shows similarly simple, sweet edges to its well filled-out, Christmas cake-like rendition of liqueur cherry flavour, with a trace of vanilla trailing along for comfort, but then, it finishes surprisingly fine, tight and brisk, with a direct line of effervescence and acids marching towards a neatly defined vanishing point, marked by a fizzy, tangy climax that almost turns the wine into my favour - but not quite. Unfortunately, the harmony of its elements never really settles and it's just not my kind of aperitif. It's too sweet and edgy.

O Okay, but not enough finesse. Cellar door spesh? Local pub list? The girls on race day? Whatever the market, it's not my type of fizz. Drink now.

86 points

www.currencycreekwines.com.au

SO, WHAT'S A ZORK THEN?

2011-10-25T22:38:00.000-07:00

Basically, Zork (or Zork Spk in this case) is an alternative closure I've seen predominantly used on some of Australia's not so expensive sparkling wines, where retention of fizz from first glass to last is desired, although there is a Zork available for still wines as well. The idea behind Zork is to deliver a resealable and taint free closure, like the screwcap, albeit one which retains the 'pop' wine drinkers have come to love when extracting cork. As a consumer, I can say the 'pop' is present and it reseals well (almost all my Currency Creek note was scribbled on day two - the freshness and effervescence had barely changed), but I feel the romance has been lost somewhat. It looks rather bold and manufactured compared to the more natural look of cork.

Despite its ungainly appearance, it's actually quite user friendly and serves its purpose well, and I'll probably hold onto mine, because it seems to be reusable and transferable across Australian sparkling wines. Time will tell how long I hold onto it for.

L: Screwed tight and sealed. R: Unscrewed and ready for popping.

Black Shiraz? Zork? Nah, I just put it there. Nice fit though.

And Pol too? Nope. No such luck. Clearly there's some cultural differences at play. Fits like an elephant into a Porsche.

MITCHELL HARRIS ROSÉ 2011

2011-10-24T23:34:00.000-07:00

- Pyrenees/Macedon Ranges, VIC

- $21.95

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

By conceiving a synergistic blend of early picked Pyrenees pinot noir, Pyrenees sangiovese juice and Macedon pinot sparkling pressings, Mitchell Harris have given birth to one of Australia's most fascinating, dry and savoury rosés. For smart phone users, the 2011 release has a QR code journey waiting to happen on the back label.

There's an interesting, if light mix of sweet, savoury and even sour suggestions on the nose of the 2011 Mitchell Harris Rosé. Glazed cherries, strawberry juice, nuts and lemons make a sharp point; reflecting some degree of its varietal make up, with a dollop of cream riding along to fractionally soften the scent. It's all fairly even and well pitched for the style, leading into a palate that reveals some marginally dirty, sweet 'n' sour edges to its uncomplicated rosé flavour, which I struggle to get past. On the plus side it's brightly flavoured, appropriately weighted and fairly persistent, but ultimately, I feel it lacks the freshness and zing I so adored in its predecessor (2010-89pts).

O Keen rosé drinkers will find a welcomed friend in the 2011 Mitchell Harris, but to me, it looks more like a good Sunday arvo café quaff, rather than the pacesetting, dry and racy rosé the 2010 was. Drink to 2012.

87 points

www.mitchellharris.com.au

BINDI COMPOSITION PINOT NOIR 2010

2011-10-21T22:51:00.000-07:00

- Macedon Ranges, VIC

- $49-$60

- Cork (Vintage dated Diam)

- 13.5%alc

Honest, informed opinions go a long way in (independent) wine retail. I was about to buy Curly Flat's 2008 Pinot Noir, when I was told; 'It's shit. Consider something else.' So (without having my arm twisted), here I am with a Bindi Macedon fix. Happy too.

Irresistibly funky and savoury, meaty and musky, with a beguiling depth of well ripened pinot fruit, Bindi's 2010 Composition reveals a beautifully floral fragrance of earthy red and blackcurrants with smooth edges of licorice and vanilla oak. By some distance, it's the most interesting Composition I've sniffed. Showing classic Bindi feel; soft, supple and unforced, its palate just graces its way through the mouth, dropping its earthy, cedary and spicy announcement of red berry fruits with real delicacy and fragility. The whole, texturally driven package is appropriately bound by an extremely fine-grained, powdery structure that lingers long into the mouth, depositing real tightness and lasting savoury impression across a taste of red licorice. It's a truly ethereal Bindi pinot noir, with plenty of potential for secondary development.

ü+ Absolutely fantastic. Working its way up a gradual curve to greatness, through increased elegance and complexity, Bindi's Composition Pinot Noir keeps getting better every year. At this rate, you might wanna put your pre-orders in for any Block K pinots now. Drink to 2019.

94 points

www.bindiwines.com.au

TEN MINUTES BY TRACTOR 10X PINOT NOIR 2010

2011-10-20T22:18:00.000-07:00

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $32-$39

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Ever wondered where Ten Minutes by Tractor gets its unique name from? It's derived from the estate's 3 original vineyards, and the 'ten minutes by tractor' separating each of them.

Enhanced by some very fragrant caramel-like oak, notes of spearmint and a spicy high tone of cinnamon, the 2010 10X underpins these leading, sweet and savoury suggestions with a typical yet attractively varietal base of juicy, succulent cherries, rhubarbs and strawberries, to altogether announce a nose of brightly lit charm. Without being too complex or other worldly, it actually smells delicious, in an over achieving style for an entry level pinot. Travelling along a light-medium bodied framework, its satiny palate races into the mouth, releasing an ultimately youthful taste of varietal cherries and clove which persist and evolve with surprising length. As the progression continues, the back palate practically steals the show, by punching out an intensifying and gripping, yet still lithe, structure of succulent acids and fine-boned, powdery tannins, underscored by sour-edged meaty notes and a dry rub of herbs and spice. Its composition is set particularly well for an earlier drinker, yet there's sufficient character to see it improve in the bottle.

ü+ The 2010 10X is a pleasingly varietal yet rather intense, racy little Mornington pinot, guided well by aroma, weight and penetration. It's a wine where I can see development but I'm already liking its youthful aggression. Consequently, it's great value for now or later. Drink to 2016.

92 points

www.tenminutesbytractor.com.au

YALUMBA EDEN VALLEY VIOGNIER 2010

2011-10-19T23:28:00.000-07:00

- Eden Valley, SA

- $16-$25

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Despite being Australia's self appointed champion of viognier, I used to think Yalumba held a single ace in their pack when it came to the white Rhône variety. However, recent years have caused a rethink on my behalf, as Louisa Rose and her team are fashioning more complexity and restrained elegance into their entry level wines. The Eden Valley Viognier in particular, is starting to show flashes of becoming a mini-Virgilius.

Apparently lacking the savoury elegance and charm I'd hoped for, the 2010 Eden Valley Viognier initially opts towards a primary, fruit driven fragrance of tinned peaches, apricot juice and lychees, with a floral, rose petal-like edge contradicted by a spiky, erratic hit of exotic spice. It does flirt with pungency on the nose and I might look over this at a speed tasting, but then, as if right on cue, the palate comes forth and saves the day, by delivering a bright, long and creamy expression of well controlled varietal flavour. It's bold and slightly unctuous, unleashing a real mouthful of white peach, apricot skin and citrus zest characters, before it finishes long with creamy apricot notes and a penetrative framework of glistening, grapefruit-like acids, all washed around the mouth with a touch of phenolic fuzz which dances to a funky beat whilst staying true to the rhythm. For a pungently varietal, fruity viognier, it works.

ü I generally don't go for viogniers like this and on inspection of the nose I thought; 'ooh. Looks like another one of those viogniers Chris.' But amazingly, it's a load of fun to drink. It is quite (stone) fruity and vaguely phenolic in the typical viognier way, but its textural richness, penetrative length and balancing acids complete a fine wine. It ain't no mini-Virgilius though. Drink to 2013.

91 points

www.yalumba.com

OZ WINE TOONS

2011-10-18T23:16:00.000-07:00

HAHNDORF HILL WINERY 'GRU' GRÜNER VELTLINER 2011

2011-10-16T23:51:00.000-07:00

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $28

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson started the ball rolling with their first grüner veltliner (2010-90pts), setting the pace for several other Adelaide Hills vignerons who are now keen to adopt the variety as a regional specialty. In coming years, expect to see 'gru-vees' from the likes of Geoff Hardy's K1 label, Henschke, Deviation Road, Nova Vita, Mt Bera and doubtless others.

Hahndorf Hill's 2011 GRU is fresh and simple yet fashionably delicate, with a pristine fragrance of ripe nashi pears lifted by notes of apple blossom and white flower, providing perfumed appeal in an enticingly feminine, youthful manner. Energetically driven and harnessed by a brisk movement of mouth-watering acids, its texturally sound palate delivers a clean accent of white-fleshed fruits and lemons which develop more chalk and pear skin-like flavour down the line, but ultimately, it's about as spotless as a Ferrari with a kilometre on the clock. There's a noted evolution in structure and movement in the 2011, conveyed without sacrificing any purity of character, making this wine a slightly more serious, yet equally as delicious GRU as its predecessor. Excellent.

ü+ Full marks to Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson for taking a promising wine and making it better, immediately. If the Adelaide Hills savalanche is wearing you a bit thin, then brace yourself for the welcomed sight of an oncoming gru-nami. Drink to 2014.

92 points

www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

ASHTON HILLS CHARDONNAY 2009

2011-10-15T01:38:00.000-07:00

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $35-$47

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Ashton Hills has long been one of the Adelaide Hills' most underrated makers of a handsomely made and fruited, showy chardonnay, so its followers will be saddened to know 2009 marks the wine's second to last release. As sad as it was to hear of Stephen George grafting all his chardonnay over to pinot noir (from a chardonnay lover's perspective), if one guy in the Adelaide Hills did such a thing, you'd want it to be Stephen. And then I drink this...

Well leesy and cheesy yet contained, with scents of green melons, lemon, apples and minerals rising above a savoury background of nutty oak and cinnamon, Ashton Hills' 2009 unleashes a classically proportioned chardonnay fragrance, by combining delicacy with intensity and weaving clean fruit through its human inputs. The palate doesn't disappoint either, smashing a rich array of white stonefruit and citrus flavours with nutty oak undertones throughout the mouth with a wonderfully nervy, racy energy and stunning length. It doesn't stop there though, as it finishes savoury and funky, with lingering notes of cream cheese and a more buttery, popcorn-like impression of oak polished up beautifully by a seamless, lengthening extract of mouth watering acids. It's far from orthodox or formulaic, reflective of the maker himself.

ü+ A totally convincing expression of a superbly manufactured wine. What a shame the second to last release of Ashton Hills Chardonnay is probably the best I've had. If early indications of the vintage are anything to go by, the final wine from 2010 should be a belter. Drink to 2017.

94 points

LARRY CHERUBINO THE YARD ACACIA VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2009

2011-10-13T23:54:00.000-07:00

- Frankland River, WA

- $26-$37

- Screwcap (Stelvin-Lux)

- 14.9%alc

Great Southern shiraz, in particular that from the Frankland River and Mt Barker sub-regions, is a burgeoning Australian style in need of a champion to sell its wares to the world. Enter Larry Cherubino, a former James Halliday Winery of the Year recipient, whose determination to promote Western Australia's diverse terroir might just fit the bill.

The 2009 Acacia Vineyard is a ripe yet savoury edged shiraz, strongly punctuated by a malty scent of cedar/coffee oak. Those adverse to a bit of wood in their shiraz might wanna proceed with caution here, but it is some classy smelling oak, whilst running through its presence is a simultaneously bright and dark expression of blueberries, plums and licorice, graced by a gentle air of violets, white pepper and clove. Extended aeration definitely helps. The medium-weighted palate begins with a savoury edged taste of sour dark fruits, before its profile becomes more interesting and layered, progressing into a grainier, slightly astringent finish. That's where a beautifully defined, rich notice of licorice emerges from the dark fruit and soothes long into the aftertaste, checked by ground spices and a structural backbone whose crunchy acids and brittle tannins show a slightly nervy edge, suggesting another year or two in the bottle may be of benefit.

O Lingering tastes of licorice and spice charcterise the high points of the 2009 Acacia Vineyard, but a slightly nervy structure and an oaky bouquet reside at the opposite end. If patience is on your side I'd recommend it, but for immediate drinking there are better options available. Drink 2013-2019.

90 points

www.yardwines.com.au

CLIMBING PINOT GRIS 2011

2011-10-12T23:53:00.000-07:00

- Orange, NSW

- $21.95

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

According to the media release accompanying Climbing's 2011 Pinot Gris, pinot gris/grigio now outsells riesling in Australia. A quick glance towards the Wine Reviews section of this website will show I'm not completely helping that cause, but it pleases me to discover more and more Australian winemakers, like Climbing's Debbie Lauritz, are treating gris with real purpose these days (varied fruit ripeness, a little lees stirring and some barrel fermentation being applied here).

Displaying the grape's pale orange/bronze colours, Climbing's 2011 Pinot Gris releases an aroma of brown nashi pears, jasmine flowers and lemon pith with a faint tone of honeysuckle. It's a little subdued, rising with more of a slow, gentle softness than a piercing intensity. Clean texture and a well controlled richness perform the palate's greatest tricks, unleashing flavours of ripe, juicy nashi pears and apples cleanly checked by a soft acidity that reveals a hint of tang at the finish. If anything, like many Australian gris, you could question its outright clarity or possible blandness (speaking pessimistically), but happily, this one has more than enough going on with its other attributes to rise from the pack, whilst within its own context, there's not a hair out of place such is its balance. It's a good gris with textural focus at its core.

ü Gris lovers (or cafe owners) should really go for Climbing's clean, rich, smartly textured and measured 2011. A bit more length and cut and I might've found myself a real revelation too. It's well made from a challenging year. Drink to 2013.

90 points

www.climbingwines.com.au

SMELL CHECK: PEARS AND PINOT GRIS

2011-10-12T22:16:00.002-07:00

Here's the first of what will hopefully become a regular series of posts on this website. It's another idea I've had for a while but a recent comment helped speed up its introduction.

Basically, born out of my personal search for calibration, 'Smell Check' will be spent comparing the scent of various fruits, foods, etc, with a wine style they're commonly associated with. Its purpose is to see whether I can actually draw myself a correlation, whilst getting better tuned to what it is I'm writing about here. There will be nothing scientific about it - no solutions, distillations, titrations - nothing of the sort, just the simple apparatus of my own, human nose. As we know, however, the human nose itself is subject to great subjectivity. Comparison of taste will not come into Smell Check.

Like everything on this blog Smell Check is a work in progress, and any feedback in regards to how it may be improved will be greatly appreciated.

For the first Smell Check I've gone with pears and pinot gris. I've selected a trio of pears; your basic packham, a rather old green nashi pear that seems to have gone yellow and a brown nashi pear. To me, due to their water-like nature, nashi pears are the style I typically associate with pinot gris.

The pears are chopped up into small segments, placed into a wine tasting glass, then if required, they are gently muddled, with a drop of water or two added to help release aroma (neither was required here).

Then, I compare aromas; pear vs gris. For the record, Climbing's 2011 Orange region Pinot Gris is the wine, and yes, it does say on the back label it contains notes of pear.

The comparative results

Packham pear: Were this a blind sniffing I might just call this apple, as there's something rather green and crisp about it. It's clearly pear though, yet it has a much sharper (and livelier) aroma than the softer smelling gris. Honestly, I'm not drawing a huge (if any) correlation here.

Brown nashi pear: Immediately softer and juicier than the packham and conversely, smells much more like the gris. There's also a sweetish edge here, which I also find in the gris. A similar intensity too. The likeness exists, without having to use too much imagination. We could be onto a winner here...

Green nashi pear: Has a funkier edge and not as aromatic as the brown pear, which could just be its age. It does however, have a dirtier scent, robbing it of crystal clear water-like clarity, which is common to the gris. Definitely some similarities here.

In conclusion

I must say colour alone has something to say here (look at the photo), but it's easy to see why people draw a line of similarity between the scent of pinot gris and pears. There's a similar softness, juiciness and intensity, and of course, character. This particular pinot gris drew a far greater resemblance to nashi pears, especially brown, but I can see how other, less worked pinot gris might smell more like other members of the pear family. Nashi pears and gris? It's there for me!

RIESLINGFREAK NO.5 RIESLING 2011

2011-10-12T00:12:00.000-07:00

- Clare Valley, SA

- $20-$25

- Screwcap

- 11.5%alc

Long recognised for their blisteringly dry rieslings, many of Clare's winemakers have found a new challenge in adjusting to the oncoming fad of off-dry styles. Rieslingfreak's John Hughes has taken an interesting and perhaps cautious approach to his off-dry riesling, by releasing a wine with relatively modest residual sugar (10.8g/L) checked by a fair T/A of 7.56g/L.

Fruity, rather tropical scents of tinned pineapple, green melon and mango announce the aroma of Rieslingfreak's No. 5, which is more openly expressive than its dry stablemate, without being as pure or direct. Interestingly, there is a faint thread of sweetness that juices through the palate, however, were it not for the labelling, I might not have mentioned it, as it seems to effect the wine's acidic backbone as much as (if not more than) its taste. The acidity actually does well to deliver the wine to the finish, where notes of kiwi-fruit and pineapple join its ripe melon/lemon squash notes, but unfortunately, there remains some softer, sweet edges to the finish, which are never truly zipped up or cleansed by its structure. I must say, as I sit over these off-dry Clare rieslings, my enjoyment of them generally lessens as the bottle empties. Not a good thing in my opinion.

O Although a fair enough interpretation that's well suited to younger drinkers, Rieslingfreak's No. 5 is fairly typical of my recent experiences with off-dry Clare rieslings. My loyalty clearly remains with Clare's dry styles. Drink to 2015.

88 points

www.rieslingfreak.com

PETALUMA BRIDGEWATER MILL CHARDONNAY 2009

2011-10-10T23:45:00.000-07:00

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $17-$25

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Petaluma's second label was once famed for possessing one of the Adelaide Hills' most exciting sauvignon blancs, but personally, I view chardonnay as Bridgewater Mill's trump card. The ludicrously over-achieving 2004 (93pts) was a standout example of what should be a 'mini-Petaluma' chardonnay.

Brightly lit and cleanly scented in a carefully fruited fashion that might lack forthright complexity, Bridgewater Mill's 2009 nonetheless reveals a citrus driven fragrance of nectarines and melons with a slightly spicy touch of nutty vanilla oak and perhaps a note of soap for varietal funk. Palate-wise, it's juicy and fleshy enough to begin, as it softly unfolds a glossy statement of bell-clear white/yellow chardonnay fruits and creamed nuts that develop pungency down the palate, where notes of sweet white peach and grapefruit emerge. It's well backed by a spotless formation of refreshing, balanced acids, making the whole package look remarkably well made and considerately crafted in the winery. Basically, it isn't gonna set the world on fire, but it's exactly the type of 'built-for-the-now' chardonnay that could (and should) muscle in on the pinot grigio/sauvignon blanc obsessed lunchtime crowd. Full marks to Petaluma for hitting the mission statement right on the head here.

ü Charmingly balanced, elegant and subtle, yet proudly varietal, the 2009 is easily the best release since 2004. It's a real step in the right direction for Bridgewater Mill - precisely the sort of chardonnay they should be releasing under this label. Drink to 2013.

90 points

www.bridgewatermill.com.au

MITCHELL HARRIS SANGIOVESE 2010

2011-10-09T23:56:00.000-07:00

- Pyrenees, VIC

- $24.95

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

Much like McLaren Vale and the Barossa Valley, Pyrenees reds tend to bare a strong stamp of regional influence that's hard to ignore (concentrated dark fruits, firm tannins and eucalyptus notes instantly come to mind). In paying respect to that, the team at Mitchell Harris have taken a deliberately simple and rustic approach to their first sangiovese (gentle crushing and de-stemming, 8 year old French oak maturation), just to see what the Pyrenees style is all about.

Happily rustic within its winemaker's intentions, the 2010 Mitchell Harris Sangiovese shows an air of savoury quality above its black cherry and currant fruit base. A sly, regional whiff of dry leaf resides without dominating, as it's equally matched by a gentle note of dry spice, expressed in a savoury, twiggy kind of way. There's a commendable litheness to the palate, which shows elements of both regional and varietal influence, however, with time, its place of origin speaks ever so clear. It competently captures the lighter, more supple aspects of sangiovese, merging a dry, dark and savoury taste of black cherries underlined by ripe, juicy fruits into a nuttier finish marked by notes of bay leaf and a curling lick of well controlled, chalky tannins. Its tight structural outline provides much needed discipline, clicking everything into place nicely.

ü A typically ripe, dry and dark fruited Pyrenees red, which shows the region might actually be able to pull off some of the lighter styles (in its own way of course). As ever, the methodical winemaking of John Harris has helped paint a clear picture here. Drink to 2016.

90 points

www.mitchellharris.com.au

A MEDITERRANEAN INSPIRED DINNER FOR A DARK, DRY AND RUSTIC VICTORIAN SANGIOVESE

2011-10-09T23:46:00.000-07:00

Chicken cacciatore.

This rather intense example is flavoured with cherry tomatoes, kalamata olives, onion, anchovies, red wine, tomato paste, oregano, salt, pepper and a bit of orange juice. The rice would come later, of course.

OZ WINE TOONS

2011-10-08T01:06:00.000-07:00

Unbeknown to veteran wine scientist, Edgar, he had just been hit on for the first time in his life.

PETER LEHMANN STONEWELL SHIRAZ 1996

2011-10-06T01:37:00.000-07:00

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $73-$110

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

As Australia evolves to better define its own distinctive terroir through sub-regional definition, we shouldn't forget how many of our very best wines represent a skillfully blended composition of multiple vineyards. Peter Lehmann's magnificent 1996 Stonewell harnesses an appetising combination of predominantly north/north-central Barossa shiraz, drawing fruit from the sub-regions of Greenock, Stonewell, Siegersdorf, Moppa and Koonunga Hill. Whatever's going on here - works in my opinion!

Showing a gorgeous fragrance with ample character, complexity and vibrancy, Peter Lehmann's 1996 Stonewell reveals a balanced, savoury nose underlined by splendid depth of fruit. There's varnish and mushroom scents, maybe a hint of truffle too, with flicks of white pepper and classic cedar/vanilla oak complementing a dry aromatic edge to its wonderfully regional, stained black fruit base. By Barossa standards, its palate is gently weighted and practically medium-bodied in the way it draws out a perfectly elegant, leathery expression of blackcurrant and red cherry flavours; however, an incredibly lively finish really steals the show here. Very long and vivid, its growing leathery and fresh vanilla complexity is kept alive and kicking to the end, courtesy of a binding extract of ultra-fine tannins and slick acid which complement its deliciously persistent flavour without muscling it out. Oh yeah. A 96 for the '96.

ü+ A beautifully complex, seamlessly balanced, somewhat subtle and elegant Barossa shiraz with plenty of fruit richness at its core. It's such a fine example of what the style is capable of with a bit of age. Drink to 2014.

96 points

www.peterlehmannwines.com

ST HALLETT OLD BLOCK SHIRAZ 1998

2011-10-06T01:10:00.000-07:00

- Barossa Valley/Eden Valley, SA

- $76-$110

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

Call me outdated or boring, but two of my very favourite Barossa shiraz labels remain Peter Lehmann's Stonewell and St Hallett's Old Block. It appears Stuart Blackwell believed the Crows' last premiership season offered some pretty fair fruit quality, as he chose to rest his flagship wine in American oak (new and two year old) for 28 months that year.

Scents of melting chocolate, brown leaf litter and soy reside in the 1998 Old Block's deep, settled fragrance, sparked by blackcurrant and plum fruits with a siding of leather. It's conclusively dark, without being vicious whatsoever. Starting out in a medium weight range, its palate quickly pumps up through the middle section, jumping into a much fuller, juicier framework that moves with good persistence, richness and softness. Its curvaceous shape contains a well directed concoction of earthy dark plum, berry and black olive flavours, which progress with a fine line of sour-edged acids and emerging touches of cedar and spice. It happily personifies the comforting aspects of good Barossa shiraz.

ü A classic regional style that just lacks the forthright complexity to be truly exceptional. Whether it'll develop those characters in coming years is difficult to see, but there's absolutely no denying the immediate drinking pleasure on offer here. Drink to 2018.

94 points

www.sthallett.com.au

NEPENTHE THE GOOD DOCTOR PINOT NOIR 2010

2011-10-02T23:44:00.000-07:00

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $34-$47

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Even though I've always cast my doubts over Nepenthe's ability to produce truly great pinot noir, I remain constantly on the lookout for worthy examples of the style from my home state. So, when Nepenthe's 2010 Good Doctor recently grabbed the bling for 'Best Pinot Noir' (judge's choice) at the South Australian Wine of the Year awards, I felt compelled to take a trip back up through Balhannah to investigate.

Quite fragrant and arrestingly varietal for an Adelaide Hills pinot; particularly a Nepenthe, the 2010 Good Doctor opens to a pretty, musky nose scented with bright cherries, rhubarb, cured meats and soft vanilla oak, with side notes of spearmint, caramel and clove providing a lively edge. Its ripeness and handling are pitched about right, making the whole aromatic presentation a shock in the best of ways. Silky, long and wide, the palate doesn't really let the wine down, but I would've loved to have seen more tightness, focus and flesh, as its meaty, juicy strawberry flavours seem to wash around the mouth in an unusually spread, slightly loose fashion, without ever spiralling down the palate with taut direction, or ever commanding the mouth's upper reaches with a definitive structural backbone. Having said that, what is there is composed, balanced and completely ready to drink, while its smooth fruit shows good persistence and a pleasingly herbal, smoked meat and tomato-like aftertaste. Essentially, its quality reminds me of some of Victoria and Tasmania's better second labels, when really, it's an Adelaide Hills reserve label.

ü I'm happy to say Nepenthe's 2010 Good Doctor is the best pinot noir I've had from their stable, however, it might be better suited to the short term. If it's a precursor of what's to come from the Adelaide Hills' 2010 pinot crop, then I'll be waiting with eager anticipation. Drink 2012-2015.

91 points

www.nepenthe.com.au

ASHTON HILLS

2011-10-02T16:28:00.000-07:00

Probably the biggest news coming out of Ashton Hills in recent times is that of Stephen George grafting all of his white varieties (with the exception of riesling) over to pinot noir (crazy dude!). So, from the 2011 vintage onwards, the only Adelaide Hills based wines coming out of Ashton Hills will be Stephen's pinot noirs, the Salmon Brut (a pinot noir based sparkling rose) and possibly a riesling.

Now, as much as I love Ashton Hills' pinot noir (and I do!), this news saddens me somewhat. Stephen's toils with the Alsatian trio of gewurztraminer, riesling and pinot gris, whether blended in his 'Three' wine or in single varietal form, typically brandished more varietal punch and flavour than most from the Hills, thanks to Stephen's daring winemaking. His 'Three' wine in particular, has become something of an Asian food classic over here in Adelaide. But the saddest news has to be the loss of Ashton Hills Chardonnay. Over the years Stephen's shown a real knack for producing complex, richly textured, brightly fruited and well worked chardonnay (in my opinion the Adelaide Hills' best performing variety and Ashton Hills' best wine outside of pinot noir). I'm sorry to drop names but if you look to James Halliday, recent Ashton Hills' Chardonnays have regularly scored in the 95-96 point range and been included in his 'Best of the Best' lists. Kicking the point home is the excellent quality of Ashton Hills' current 2009 Chardonnay. Sigh.

Clearly, the wonderfully eccentric Stephen George is just another man lured by the impossible to deny sexual attraction of fine pinot noir. There's no problems from me there and honestly, it's actually good to see an Australian winery fine-tune, or perhaps 'varietally cleanse' their range for once, as opposed to constantly padding it with new wines and styles based on market trends.

At first I was under the opinion Stephen's move to a more pinot-centric Ashton Hills might've been a personal one; the man is a pinot freak, but a conversation with an Adelaide Hills retailer took me to the impression it might've been a commercially motivated one. According to said retailer, Stephen is hounded by retailers, restauranteurs, airlines etc for his pinot noir, not his whites - so, if it's Ashton Hills Pinot Noir everyone wants, then it's more Ashton Hills Pinot Noir everyone gets. Fair enough really.

At the end of all this, I wish Stephen George, one of my true winemaking idols, all the best with the transition. Good luck Stephen!

Ashton Hills tasting notes are posted below

Ashton Hills Salmon Brut 2009 ($35) Indistinct nose. Clean, crisp, relatively savoury palate with some dry biscuit and strawberry flavour. Needs more character but will bottle age help? Maybe, but for $35 I'd be investing my money elsewhere. 87

Ashton Hills Pinot Gris 2010 ($30) Oodles of character for pinot gris, helped along by late picking, residual sugar and the use of oak. Poached pears and barrel ferment notes on the nose, with some cheesy/sweet aspects as well. Palate too reflects plenty of flavour, with winemaking and rich texture at the fore and a clear taste of residual sweetness to finish. A real 'standout' gris. 89

Ashton Hills Gewurztraminer 2010 ($30) The winemaking (barrel fermentation and lees ageing) isn't as obvious in Stephen's traminer as it is his gris, which is immediately bright, expressive and proudly varietal. Check cleanly scented lychees, rose petals and spice for fragrant appeal, as well as a punchy, juicy palate marked by some of that deceptively sweet and savoury, pure traminer fruit. It finishes particularly refreshing and dry and would make a smart drink for a bright, sunny day. 90

Ashton Hills Chardonnay 2009 ($40) Outstanding nose, immediately makes me stand up and take notice. It mimics nuts and butter with clean melons, grapefruit and white peach all living in harmony without any component going to excess. The palate is notably mouthfilling in the classic Ashton Hills style, richly textured and flavoured, bright, complex and full of impact from start to finish, yet still cleanly balanced and utterly spotless. A fine combination of assertive fruit and winemaking. (full review soon) 94

Ashton Hills Piccadilly Valley Pinot Noir 2010 ($30) Has settled down nicely since I first tasted this wine some 5 months ago. Possesses a simple yet correct, ripe red fruit and vanilla oak nose, with a palate whose juicy richness errs towards medium-full bodied territory but remains soft and supple enough to end with balance and a refreshingly clean structure. It's a good all-night quaffing pinot, but I do note the slight increase in price from a few years back moves it slightly further away from 'quaffing' zone for me. 90

Ashton Hills Estate Pinot Noir 2009 ($40) Whereas I noted an improvement in integration of the PV wine from 5 months ago, this I didn't. It still looks a bit baked, ripe and dark fruited with some meaty/raisiny aspects, which effects both the varietal integrity of its perfume and its texture. Finish looks a little rough too. It's a fair enough, lighter weight red, it's just hardly a great pinot in my view. 89

Ashton Hills Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 ($60) Has a sweetly fruited punch of red plums and cherries with fresh and fragrant, spicy vanilla oak coming along for the ride. The palate also looks a bit sweeter fruited than the best vintages, and although it similarly lacks the perfume, delicacy and elegance of those wines, it comes into its own on a long, commanding, agreeably meaty finish, opened up and flared out by an expansive extract of dry, grainy, assertive tannins. So if a proudly structured pinot is your thing then this looks pretty smart, otherwise, it's probably best served in the cellar for a while. 92

Ashton Hills Sparkling Shiraz 2005 ($40) Shows the ripeness of its Clare vintage with a sweetish (dosage?), concentrated, dark fruited and fractionally meaty style that sometimes suits sparkling reds, but this time it just doesn't work for me. Has the structure and depth to age for a while yet, so maybe time will help it integrate and gain further savoury complexity. The 2002 (from a much better vintage) was looking pretty good around this time last year. 89

Ashton Hills: the future is clear (if a slightly hazy red colour)

NEPENTHE

2011-10-02T15:19:00.000-07:00

Much like regional neighbours Ashton Hills, Nepenthe seems to have undergone some notable changes since my last visit. But unlike Ashton Hills, notable change seems to be part of the scenery at Nepenthe.

Nepenthe's wine quality continues to remain steady in a middle of the road kind of way, but outside of that, things tend to shift around fairly quickly for this assertively marketed brand. They're certainly unlikely to die standing still.

The last five years have seen a change of ownership, change of head winemaker and a handsomely redeveloped cellar door, but today I'm going to concentrate more on what's going on with the wines. So here's a look at what might've gone through the heads of the people at Nepenthe recently.

- Let's get serious with sauvignon blanc

Although I don't have the official figures, I assume the carload after busload after carload of trendy, sharply dressed Gen-Xers who rock up to Nepenthe's cellar door on sunny days has something to do with their sauvignon blanc. Fortunately for more discerning drinkers, Nepenthe's recently adopted a more grown up approach to tackling the variety. 2009 marked the arrival of Nepenthe's 'Petraea' Sauvignon Blanc, a wood aged rendition of the variety (5 months in 2500L barrels for the 2010) which goes to show Nepenthe does have a vested interest in pleasing the more serious consumer. Going off the current release, I believe Nepenthe has a bit more work to do to perfect the style (like many from the Hills in my opinion), but their extra effort to produce a top class wine is highly commendable. $28 isn't too bad either.

- Let's get serious with pinot gris

From 2012 onwards I'm told Nepenthe will be getting 'serious' with pinot gris. Whether or not that means an addition to their reserve 'Pinnacle' range or sprucing up their standard gris I'm not sure, but there will be a change towards a a more worked style. I was recently informed pinot gris/grigio now outsells riesling in Australia, which might validate the move in some respects, as well as compensate for those estate chardonnay vines I saw grafted over to pinot gris (chardonnay has clearly been Nepenthe's best performer over the last 5 years in my opinion). Let's hope the 2012 vintage plays into their hands.

- Let's do something about our reds

Although Nepenthe has traditionally been associated with one of the the more unusual red wine portfolios in the Adelaide Hills, the company now seems to be moving in a slightly more orthodox direction, with some of the red focus shifting from those erratic cabernet styles to the more regionally accepted shiraz. The 'Gate Block' Shiraz now signifies Nepenthe's efforts to create a high quality, regional take on the variety. Nepenthe's tempranillo actually looked quite smart on my visit, but I wonder how long the winery will persist with their much maligned Adelaide Hills zinfandel.

- Let's take a look at the results

Despite the noted transitions surrounding Nepenthe's savvy, gris and fuller reds, it was two of the brand's mainstays; the Ithaca Chardonnay and Good Doctor Pinot Noir, which recently impressed a few of our country's show judges. The 2010 Ithaca having picked up the 'Best White Wine' Trophy at the 2011 Riverina Wine Show and the 2010 Good Doctor winning judge's choice for 'Best Pinot Noir' at the 2011 South Australian Wine of the Year awards. The 2010 Ithaca looks a cleverly made (in both vineyard and winery), very classy wine for its modest price, and although the 2010 Good Doctor was unavailable for tasting, it was available for purchase and I picked up a bottle for full review soon.

Nepenthe tasting notes posted below

Nepenthe Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($19) A very clean and smart looking, typically regional savvy, with good fragrance, brightness and persistence to its ably textured herbal/gooseberry characters. Nepenthe believe the 2011 is one of the best sauvignon blancs they've made in the last 10 years and I'd have to agree. A proud cafe/pub/sitting and sipping-on-Nepenthe's-lawn wine if ever there was one. 90

Nepenthe Petraea Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($28) I was expecting a big jump from the standard wine but it just never really happened. The relatively passive oak and extra bottle age seems to have dumbed down its fruit without really contributing much in the way of complexity. There's some mineral/banana custard notes and a fair push of smooth texture, but it just lacks the vibrancy, shape and structure I ultimately seek. Still, not bad though, and I'll be keeping my eye on it in the future, particularly given the fine 'standard' wine from 2011. 90

Nepenthe Pinot Gris 2010 ($19) Slightly dull, predictable nose reflecting fairly simple, bland white pears. Clean, straight forward palate would make for fair summertime quaffing if not much else. 86

Nepenthe Chardonnay 2010 ($19) 93% unwooded. Once again bit bland, uninspiring, with not a hell of a lot to pick in the way of fruit or winemaking tricks. It is however, cleaner and fresher than the gris, with a finish that spritzes up at the end. 87

Nepenthe Ithaca Chardonnay 2010 ($25) Outstanding value for a 'reserve' Adelaide Hills chardonnay from a reputed name. It has a very clever, fresh and complex nose with some savoury complexity - touches of mineral, yellow nectarine, flint and matchstick with a buttered popcorn-like oak component, but it's all very refined and in line. The palate begins clean, fresh and tight, before developing flavour and pungency towards the finish. Bright acids. Clean wine. Good stuff. 92

Nepenthe Pinot Noir 2010 ($19) Medicinal, sweet red cherry and herb nose, bit off putting really. I hope it's an aeration issue. The palate's a bit sweet 'n' sour, thin and conclusively lacks stuffing, subsequently revealing an unfortunate edginess. Disappointing. 84

Nepenthe The Good Doctor Pinot Noir 2009 ($38) Immediately more satisfying and varietal than the base range wine, with a nose of dusty, meaty cherry kernels, and although its palate enters with a pleasing silkiness, it quickly drops away towards the finish and that's what's left lingering in my mind. 88

Nepenthe Tempranillo 2008 ($25) A real surprise, particularly fragrantly, with its smooth, musky, mushroomy aromas of varnishy red cherries and well handled oak depicting something of the old world in a convincing manner. The vibrant and well constructed palate's bright and smooth to begin but ends with prickly spices and lithe structure. Good wine. 90

Nepenthe The Sirens Zinfandel 2007 ($35) Thin, green, very herbal nose with some cherry elements. Soupy palate, lacks stuffing and vitality, ends awkward and disjointed. Hard to see what's going on here, especially for $35. 84

Nepenthe Gate Block Shiraz 2008 ($38) Almost anything would look good after that zinfandel, and indeed, the 2008 Gate Block might've benefited. It has a bit of a multi-faceted, ripe Adelaide Hills shiraz nose, with meats, menthol/varnish, red and black plums and blueberries. Although smooth to start, with a creamy oak driven texture, the palate looks a bit baked around the edges and could do with more fruit brightness. 89

BURGE FAMILY WILSFORD WINEMAKERS VO TAWNY

2011-10-01T22:38:00.000-07:00

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $32-$36 (500ml)

- Cork (Capsule)

- 19.5%alc

Thanks to his family connections with the old Wilsford winery, Rick Burge is able to fashion a thoroughly diverse set of Barossa fortifieds using some very old base materials. Atop Rick's sextuplet of fortified styles sits the VO Tawny, a grenache-based wine awarded a Top Gold at the 2010 Rutherglen Wine Show.

A powerful, heady, intoxicating whiff of alcohol commands the aroma of Rick Burge's VO Tawny, giving a sharp, vaporous intensity to its deeper set notes of fruitcake, currants, spice, orange rind and vanilla oak. The fumes alone would scare the pants off any teetotaler, but the wine's strength contains itself nicely on the palate, which is charmingly rich yet balanced and integrated throughout. Its burnt caramel and nutty rancio flavours persist with sticky saturation along a medium-full bodied framework, leading into a more open-ended, aggressive finish where spirit and spicy fruitcake notes forge the wine home with a lingering orange jam-like sweetness and alcoholic heat. It revels in the intensity of its finish, so a single glass should suffice.

ü A marvellous little show of the excesses of Barossa tawny, without the excessive price. For slightly less ($22), you can get Rick's Old Barossa Tawny (90pts) with even more alcohol (21.0%). Drink now.

92 points

www.burgefamily.com.au

PETER LEHMANN SEMILLON 2010

2011-10-01T00:55:00.000-07:00

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $7-$16

- Screwcap

- 11.0%alc

The recent consistency of Peter Lehmann's bargain-basement semillon has been little short of spectacular for a wine of its price (for those of us who appreciate the style of course). Even then, with the fine vintage report and a fantastic wine like Rick Burge's unwooded 2010 Olive Hill (92pts) already released, it's the 2010 Peter Lehmann Semillon I've really pinned high hopes on. I am interested to know how this relates though.

Very restrained and clean, with a slightly spicy nose of under-ripe green pears, melons, lemon and straw, Peter Lehmann's 2010 is one of those young semillons whose shy fragrance suggests its palate should do all the talking. The medium-weighted palate does follow a similar path initially, speaking clarity through youthful, restrained flavour, but if you read between the lines it mentions a few extra details. Firstly, there's a genuinely understated concentration of clean, juicy texture, followed by a mid-palate evolution in flavour profile. It proceeds to reveal more dry grass aspects trailed by a surprisingly savoury, lanolin-like note, which lingers calmly into the aftertaste alongside a soft push of simultaneously creamy, sour-citric acids marked by a faint bitter edge.

ü For under $10 there's a bit more going on here than your average quaffing white and, it probably tastes (and reads) like more than it is. Simple, yet cleverly complex. Drink to 2016.

88 points

www.peterlehmannwines.com

JACOB'S CREEK RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009

2011-09-30T01:06:00.000-07:00

- Coonawarra, SA

- $12-$21

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

What a delight to see Jacob's Creek issue their Reserve range shmick new labels clearly emblazoned by a region of origin. As an ever curious consumer, the more transparency with regional sourcing the better I say - I mean, I probably wouldn't have bought this wine under the old label.

Jacob's Creek's 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon smells like a joyous little dob of sweet Coonawarra simplicity in a glass. Think ripe black plums and raspberries risen by sweet notes of mint/menthol and a wafer-like expression of creamy vanilla oak to boot. Its nose is only marginally put off by a whiff of alcohol etching alongside its menthol, but unfortunately, its palate doesn't follow through on the fragrant promise. There's some winemaking polish on show in its initial push of creamy oak driven black/redcurrant flavour, but then it hits a bump in the movement, first by revealing a raw edge to its fruit, and then by finishing loose and fractionally thin with lingering nuances of both the baked and sweet 'n' sour kind. Structure doesn't help out either. To track this wine as a curve...

X It appears I was overly optimistic on this one. I had grand visions of a mini-St Hugo I did. But on drinking, those visions folded faster than Superman on laundry day*. Drink to 2014.

85 points

www.jacobscreek.com

A SENSORY ENJOYMENT GRAPHICAL ANALYSIS: JACOB'S CREEK RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009

2011-09-30T00:37:00.000-07:00

Those who hate the use of numbers when analysing wine will probably cringe at this, but I've been toying with this chart for a couple of months now. Previously, I've never seen fit to publish it, because too many times the analysis resembled a straight line with only minor deviations. Unfortunately for the good people at Jacob's Creek, their 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is the first wine I've encountered where the graph illustrates its point quite well. We're clearly shown how a wine can present so much initial promise, yet fall apart badly with deeper inspection. In a visual way, it sums the wine up nicely I think.

I actually sampled this wine not that long ago, towards the end of an all night binge of drinking Coonawarra reds, and was enamoured (enough for a Jacob's Creek Reserve wine anyway), which is why I bought one. Clearly, in a drunken haze, I was attracted to it more by its packaging and aroma then I was by its palate (of which, mine was probably shot by that point of the night).

As for the chart, I've purposely chosen 'packaging' instead of 'appearance' or 'colour', because I find I get more of a sensory thrill from a wine's label than I do its physical appearance (although I do fall for a sexy, unfiltered pinot...). Additionally, I've messed around with the idea of changing it from a score of 0-10 along the y-axis to a score more relative to the 100 point scale, e.g. 85-95 or something like that. It might be more comparable.

But be warned, this chart may return! So if anyone has any hints/tips/ideas on how it could be improved, I'd be MOST appreciative. To say it's in its infancy would be an understatement - I don't even know how to use it yet!

OZ WINE TOONS

2011-09-26T23:19:00.000-07:00

DOMAINE A CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005

2011-09-22T02:08:00.000-07:00

- Coal River Valley, TAS

- $85

- Cork

- 13.0%alc

Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon is a highly desired Australian wine, defined as much by its mystery as it is by its greatness. The legend of Swiss-born Peter Althaus crafting a cabernet of Bordeaux-like quality, from a part of the world where only the brave persevere with the style, is one of Australia's greatest wine tales.

Rather loose and unsettled at first and in dire need of a serious decant (5+ hours might do it!), Domaine A's 2005 takes an age to compose itself, but when it does, it reveals an immensely deep, alluring fragrance, which manages to balance contradictory scents from both the meaty/leathery and leafy/herbal spectrums. Any indication of 2+ years in new French oak is held well in check, as its nose is best described as autumnal, with murky suggestions of damp, earthy soils and brown leaf litter interspersed by brighter notes of blackcurrants, pepper berries and menthol. The longer it stays in the glass, the more hints of cigar-box, chocolate and spice begin to emerge. Eventually it finds its way into my mouth, where it unfolds a majestic display of black, briary berry flavours gripped by a first-rate tannin structure whose focus and persistence are exquisite. It becomes impressively dry and savoury towards the finish, flaunting a long and layered assortment of cedar, cigar-box and granulated coffee notes that do share space with an edge of aniseed. Unsurprisingly, for a wine of its magnitude, it's completely apparent that its best days are yet to come.

ü+ Patience reveals Domaine A's 2005 to be a beautifully deep, aromatic cabernet blend with the length, complexity and structure to rival Australia's very best. In all respects, it's a seriously confronting wine. Drink 2015-2025.

96 points

www.domaine-a.com.au

DOMAINE A LADY A 2008

2011-09-19T00:59:00.000-07:00

- Coal River Valley, TAS

- $58-$65

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

If there's one Australian sauvignon blanc that makes the rest of the field look rather modest by comparison, then it's Domaine A's Lady A. Check 3 months battonage, around 12 months new French oak and already 3 years age for this current release, as well as a cork closure, a $60 retail tag and a potential cellaring life of 8-10 years according to the back label. Sounds like an Australian savvy with more ambition than Ayrton Senna in a go-kart? You bet!

I can't recall the last time I pulled a cork from an Australian sauvignon blanc but more importantly, I can't recall the last time I stuck my nose into such a wonderfully unique interpretation of the style. Riddled with a bright, intoxicating fragrance of sour-cream, gherkin relish (I did compare and yes, the relish is 26.9g sugar per 100g), limey minerals, fresh green grapes and granny smith apples, the 2008 Lady A's funk and complexity are without peer in this country, yet its composition is delivered with a strange balance and floral lift. The clarity and vibrancy of its palate are superb, as those idiosyncratic sour-cream and gherkin notes return to contribute taste to a creamy undercarriage, which underlines its vivid announcement of mineral-sparked green apples and kiwi fruit. The complexity achieved by marrying these contrasting characters is outstanding, as is the way its textural drive lasts well into the finish, with lingering white cheese/leesy notes matched well by an accompaniment of refreshing, minerally acids.

ü Mmmm. . . so hard to pin down such an ethereal wine. If you wanna know what $60 Australian sauvignon blanc does and perhaps should taste like, then invest your money here. The wise among us might even sit one aside for a couple of years. Definitively, the Lady A is about as close to the stereotype of a typical Australian savvy as Tasmania is to Pluto. Drink to 2016.

94 points

www.domaine-a.com.au

JACOB'S CREEK RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008

2011-09-18T01:19:00.000-07:00

- South Australia

- $12-$21

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Just taking an unusual look at two very different 2008 sauvignon blancs at the moment. One is your readily available, typical consumer style, exactly the type of wine experts tell us not to age. As for the other, well, we're just gonna have to wait till tomorrow for that...

Ooh, there's quite an interesting nose here. Jacob's Creek's 2008 Reserve is scented with limey/toasty notes (maybe an initial hint of kero as well?), not too dissimilar to a developing riesling, but happily, it still rises out of the glass with certain degrees of clarity and brightness, if not outstanding lift. Unfortunately, it all becomes less distinctive with time. Its palate looks a bit flat, lacking varietal intensity and definition more than anything else, which leaves its one-dimensional lime juice notes to be characterised by an all too simple expression of texture, flavour and structure. Having said that, its limey focus actually proves quite drinkable, surprisingly settled and completely inoffensive, in an ignore the wine and just talk to your mates kind of way.

O Ultimately simple in the mouth, yet not too bad really. I can see where this has fallen down, but I can also see it's disappearing down the back of my throat. I still wouldn't hang on to wines of this ilk though. Drink now.

86 points

www.jacobscreek.com

RIESLINGFREAK NO.3 RIESLING 2011

2011-09-16T00:57:00.000-07:00

- Clare Valley, SA

- $20-$25

- Screwcap

- 11.5%alc

Rieslingfreak is the brand of John Hughes, a man whose rise to prominence has been doubtlessly assisted by his appearance on Australia's most popular reality TV show. Fortunately for John, his dry Clare rieslings are of a good enough standard to withstand the potential flow of customers who make the transition from television set to bottle.

Moderately pure to sniff yet still marked by hints of tropical riesling fruit, this 2011 Clare riesling gets lifted out of the glass by a sharp, almost spiced-up scent of lemon/grapefruit, which really flies with straightness and precision, leaving a mineral accented aroma of melon and pineapples behind. There's a slightly unnerving taste of pineapple to the palate, but other than that, its concentrated texture, driving length and searing acidity work like a well drilled team. In fact, it tastes like a riesling that's been built much more seriously than its fun name suggests. The mouthfeel and movement of the wine are key. Its wet slate and lime juice flavours announce themselves as quite smooth and richly flavoured, in a pleasingly compact way that does become juicier with time, before it springs into action on a lively finish, decorated by vibrant, grapefruit-like acids and a note of tinned pineapple.

ü There is a slight sweet 'n' sour aspect here (pineapple-like), but looking at the texture, flow and structure of this wine, John Hughes clearly has a knack for dry Clare riesling. Reality TV show appearance or not, Rieslingfreak is a welcomed addition to the shelves of fine wine retailers in my opinion. Drink to 2018.

91 points

www.rieslingfreak.com

YERING STATION RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2005

2011-09-14T01:32:00.000-07:00

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $56-$72

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The Yarra Valley enjoyed a cracking vintage for chardonnay in 2005. Coldstream Hills' seamless, near perfect 2005 Reserve (96pts) provided a seasonal high point for me back in October 2007, but Yering Station's 2005 Reserve (95pts) wasn't too far behind. Ah, good times they were, and now, I'm reliving one of them.

With a glowing, radiant scent lifting off its pale-golden shades, Yering Station's 2005 Reserve conducts a hi-octane aromatic dance throughout the bowl of my biggest Burgundy glass, releasing yellow nectarine, grapefruit, creamed corn and buttered white toast/popcorn aromas. The line between fruit and oak has been considerably blurred, creating a complex unison of the two. When the time finally comes to drink down, it reveals a most supple, practically fragile texture, which although fractionally creamy, still mimics some elements of beautiful pinot noir, without any sign of excessive weight or richness. Perhaps equally as impressive is an ever present, electrifying zap of sherbety grapefruit/citric acids ensconcing its vibrant flavour, the latter of which resembles sweet yellow stonefruits bookended by minerals and sour cream. It's that understated harmony of complex texture, brightly lit flavour and glistening structure that makes this chardonnay something special. There's more good years ahead here. No doubt.

ü+ I could elaborate much further on this. Let's just say it's a wine that demands respect and, I'm really, really glad I have one left. Drink to 2015.

95 points

www.yering.com

A PLATE WITH POULTRY, POTATO AND A PECULIAR PRESENTATION POINT, FOR A MATURE YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY

2011-09-14T01:24:00.000-07:00

Chicken, broad bean and artichoke stew, with a simple mash accompaniment. Indeed, only a sick and twisted individual would use brussels sprouts purely for presentation purposes on a dish like this. :)

WYNNS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009

2011-09-12T01:29:00.000-07:00

- Coonawarra, SA

- $20-$35

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

It interested me to see Wynns dub their new green label cabernet sauvignon 'The Siding'. According to a winery rep, too many consumers were referring to the wine as the green label, which, in Wynns' opinion, is a bad colour to be associating with cabernet sauvignon. On the basis of some 54 vintages, black seems a much better colour match for Coonawarra cabernet.

Perhaps showing more malty notes than I recall in recent vintages, Wynns' 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon nonetheless remains typical of the label's pedigree. It presents an evenly ripened yet well contained fragrance of blackcurrants which edge slightly towards red, boosted by aromas of licorice, toasty cedar/vanilla oak and a faint thread of dry leaf; no mint. The palate itself is just so Wynns. There's a genuine depth and richness to its pulsating core of medium-medium/full bodied regional berry flavours, which although silky to commence, quickly move into a much drier, dustier landscape, forged through the finish by smatterings of dry cedar and a particularly grainy extract of gritty tannins tightly checked by cutting acids. The final impression is very dry, savoury in a mineral way and most of all, physical.

ü+ Structurally, the 2009 is a notable step up from the 2008, but the overall consistency of this wine is incredible. Wynns must possess some sort of factory line for producing flawless Coonawarra cabernet, black-toothed Oompa-Loompas and all. Drink to 2027.

92 points

www.wynns.com.au

1965: WHEN BLACK BECAME THE NEW BLACK

2011-09-12T01:23:00.000-07:00

Wynns' famous 'Black Label' Cabernet Sauvignon actually wore a white label until 1965, the same year in which it went from being called Cabernet to Cabernet Sauvignon.

[Image courtesy of the book; Reflections: 50 Years of Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon]

MAC FORBES WOORI YALLOCK PINOT NOIR 2010

2011-09-08T02:06:00.000-07:00

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $60

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

Mac Forbes is an emerging name rightly associated with Australia's new wave of fanatical pinot noir producers. With no less than 6 individual Yarra Valley pinot noirs in his range, Mac's focus is squarely set on promoting distinguished sites within the Yarra Valley and realising the potential of each site's unique attributes. As I was feeling in need of something special today, I thought I'd splurge on the most expensive 2010 Mac Forbes Pinot Noir available, the Woori Yallock.

The Woori Yallock's name may be about as elegant as a bow-legged ballet dancer in desert boots, but its aroma is a thing of elegant bliss. It's bright yet seductively understated, with a wonderfully airy perfume of sweet, succulent cherries bonded by notes of stalk, fresh herbs, balanced spices and a lick of caramel, reflecting true Yarra elegance without a forceful impression of oak. Although lightly scented and a touch simple in its youth, it's in no way thin or dilute. The palate enters with the restrained, textural lightness of a genuinely polite pinot, before building expansively yet gracefully with intensifying meaty/cherry notes blessed by outstanding length of flavour. It reveals a finish whose wonderfully quaint tapestry of svelte, caramel tannins and slick acids glide throughout the mouth with precision, leaving a long lasting impression of utter brightness and ideal ripeness, marked by sour-edged aspects and dry touch of earth. Yep. . .

ü+ On first sip the 2010 Woori Yallock appears to be one of those pinots where less is more, but then it just grows and grows into the mouth until you're left thinking; 'Wow! Gimme some more!' Even then, I can still see this really flying in a couple of years time. Brilliant Yarra pinot. It's hit the spot nicely. Drink to 2018.

94 points

www.macforbes.com

OZ WINE TOONS

2011-09-05T22:32:00.000-07:00

D'ARENBERG THE NOBLE WRINKLED RIESLING 2010

2011-09-05T03:23:00.000-07:00

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $20 (375ml)

- Screwcap

- 12.3%alc

I've been relatively impressed by d'Arenberg's recent efforts with their dessert riesling. The cleverly named Noble Wrinkled now leans towards a very rich, luscious, genuinely botrytised style, which, if anything, makes me eager to see what d'Arenberg can come up with from the generally botrytis riddled 2011 vintage. I mean, even Jeffrey Grosset made a botrytis riesling this year!

Just like a good Australian stickie should, d'Arenberg's 2010 Noble Wrinkled Riesling glows aromatically, with genuine vitality and life. It hits big nectarine and spicy green melon scents right within its stylistic groove, flying into the nose with a sweet, fruity, confected fragrance punched out further by a hint of apricot marmalade on toast. Smooth and sweet, its palate delves lusciously into the mouth's depths, releasing a literal duck dive of melon and burnt caramel flavours defined by an unctuous quality and a notably sticky progression. Its finish is enlivened by a timely wash of orange/citric acids, which refresh the palate whilst leaving a lasting note of orange zest-like flavour behind.

ü+ Quite delicious and really ready to go now, d'Arenberg's 2010 Noble Wrinkled is an easy two glass dessert wine for me. Drink to 2016.

91 points

www.darenberg.com.au

MITCHELL HARRIS SHIRAZ 2009

2011-09-03T05:51:00.000-07:00

- Pyrenees, VIC

- $29.95

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

It's always interesting to compare the work of one winemaker producing two closely priced renditions of one style for two different brands. Johnno Harris crafted a brightly fruited, delicious Pyrenees shiraz with his 2009 Mount Avoca release (92pts), which leads me to his similarly viognier influenced 2009 Mitchell Harris Shiraz (3% viognier here compared to 4.5% in the Mount Avoca).

Dark and ultra-ripe but not over-ripe, with a slight skinsy/dried apricot-like whiff of viognier, the 2009 Mitchell Harris opens to a fragrance dripping with black suggestions; plums, dates and bramble berries, perhaps tar and a sniff of white pepper, with a soft oak influence indicative of older barrels. Through the darkness roams a minor scent of dried leaf, but it's fleetingly apparent and far from defining, providing no more than a green edge to its black ball of fruit. The palate is marked by a gritty rawness, or hardness, clinging to its very dry finish, which upsets and dislodges its initially smooth and earthy movement of bright, medium-weighted forest berry flavours. With that in mind, its ideal setting might be at the dinner table for now, or possibly the cellar for later.

O For me, I much prefer the 2009 Mount Avoca Shiraz over this. It just seems a more complete, sensuous and subsequently delicious wine. But to confuse matters, here's a link to a beautifully articulated look at the two John Harris wines, from a seasoned blogger whose preference might just contradict mine. Drink 2014-2017.

89 points

www.mitchellharris.com.au

PETALUMA BRIDGEWATER MILL SHIRAZ 2009

2011-09-02T00:37:00.000-07:00

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $17-$25

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

There was a time when Petaluma's pastel yellow was principally set aside for the company's premier wines. Now, that famous shade seems to adorn almost all Petaluma products, from the previously white labelled viognier and shiraz, to the recently released earlier drinking Hundred Line cabernet, to the second label Bridgewater Mill wines. My question is, has Petaluma manufactured a better sense of unity across their range, at the expense of the high standing of their best wines?

There's a floral lift of white pepper rising alongside fragrant, nutty/chocolatey oak from within this 2009 Shiraz, which proves quite attractive. Its nose displays calmness without a big punch of ripe fruit, revealing a deeper, reserved aromatic layer of both red and black cherry scents for balance. The palate however, doesn't quite follow suit. Whilst reasonably lively throughout, it's a bit edgier and beset by a more 'roasted' blackcurrant/red cherry-like profile, with a simple announcement of texture and weight that is somewhat overawed by a rather hard-edged, mouthfilling wash of glossy acids and gritty tannin. Some of the elements of great shiraz are present, but they just don't quite gel together. More length of fruit, stuffing and a finer, tighter stitching would've gone a long way here.

O I can't help but think this is just an 'average' Australian shiraz. For around $20, I guess that's fair enough really. Drink to 2012-2016.

88 points

www.petaluma.com.au

TAYLORS JARAMAN SHIRAZ 2009

2011-09-01T01:42:00.000-07:00

- Clare Valley/McLaren Vale, SA

- $20-$35

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

I fear Taylors has lost a bit of focus lately. Personally, I'd love to see the brand concentrate more on creating high quality Clare Valley wines, the type which brought them to prominence in the first place, before this cross-regional blending thing (matched with heavily discounted prices) gets too out of hand. It's just one man's opinion.

The 12 months Taylors' 2009 Jaraman Shiraz spent in American oak (10% new) resonates throughout its aroma. It's lifted by a fragrant whiff of vanilla/mocha/coffee oak, which isn't without appeal, but it does slightly hinder a rather jammy/jube-like scent of raspberries and blueberries residing beneath. Interestingly, I also pick up a note of toasted marshmallow. Although reasonably smooth to touch (for the most part) and perfectly quaffable with simple red meat, pasta or pizza dishes, its palate is moved along by smooth, sweet oak, whilst still leaving a trail of warming aspects and an ill-defined fruit profile that takes on the guise of shiraz fruit compote drizzled over cooked red meat. Structurally it's quite straight forward too, but for a wine with a $30RRP, it's the all too simple flavour profile that really lets me down.

X I had a 'complimentary' bottle of De Bortoli's 2009 Willowglen Shiraz Cabernet at a Spanish restaurant last night, which I believe retails for around $5, and honestly, on the basis of enjoyment, I couldn't pick too much difference between that and this. Drink to 2015.

86 points

www.taylorswines.com.au

MANY YEARS AGO...

2011-09-01T01:28:00.000-07:00

The label of Taylors' 1975 Clare Valley Hermitage, a champion of Australian wine shows in its day. In addition to the 3 gold and 4 silver medals mentioned here, Taylors' 1975 Hermitage also acquired one additional silver medal and 7 more bronze babies. For all its proudly flaunted achievements, notice the lack of 'bling' on the label here.

[Image courtesy of the book; 'Winemakers of the Clare Valley'. Published by Decalon, 1978.]

WOODSTOCK SHIRAZ 2010

2011-08-27T02:04:00.000-07:00

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $16-$24

- Screwcap (Stelvin-Lux)

- 14.9%alc

The combined efforts of Scott Collett (viticulture) and Ben Glaetzer (winemaking), Woodstock's Shiraz is one wine that's clearly capable of over delivering under the right conditions. The deliciously smooth, chocolatey, very regional 2004 (92pts) proved this point admirably, but ensuing vintages haven't been quite so kind.

Although perhaps a shade ripe and a touch high in alcohol (website says 15.4% - bottle 14.9%), the most dominant aroma within Woodtsock's 2010 is a rather blunt, constrictive whiff of biscuity, chocolatey American oak. Sitting well beneath the wood, its fruit is an ultra-ripe and dark expression of the McLaren Vale style, resembling a combination of blackberries, currants, licorice and tar, however, it's far from bright or fragrant. The palate redeems itself somewhat with a smooth, silky entry, but its initially plush red and black plum skin flavours break down towards the finish, where it shows hard, chunky, blocky aspects and a lingering suggestion of prune-like fruit. It'll probably settle down over the next 12 months but it's hardly a ringing endorsement of the potential of McLaren Vale's 2010 vintage.

O Having taken in all the fuss surrounding the promise of South Australia's 2010 vintage, I had high hopes for this wine. Unfortunately, my optimism has been shot, as Woodstock's 2010 Shiraz is little more than a simple, oaky, ultra-ripe BBQ red to be enjoyed with friends. That's where the bottom half of this bottle will end up tomorrow... Drink 2013-2016.

87 points

www.woodstockwine.com.au

MOUNT PLEASANT ROSEHILL SHIRAZ 2007

2011-08-26T03:21:00.000-07:00

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $25-$39

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

One of the benefits of retailers not being bang up to date with vintages, is that you'll regularly find wines with an extra year or two bottle age, which will be all the better for it. Seeing all these delicious 2007 Hunter shirazes in Adelaide right now makes me glad to be South Australian! ;)

The 2007 Rosehill is a rather elegant and well formed Hunter shiraz, that despite taking time to open up, still proclaims the even ripeness associated with its season. It breathes gently and slowly but evenly, revealing a bouquet which is at once mature and youthful, fruity and savoury, if a fraction shy to speak. There are compressed scents of red and black berries at its core, quilted by leathery/earthy suggestions and tightly wound up by a toasty whiff of cedar/vanilla/mocha oak. Entering the palate with medium-weight, it pumps up considerably through the middle section courtesy of a juicy punch of ripe red berries and dark plums, propelling it closer to medium-full bodied territory. Underscoring its bright and flavoursome fruit is a classically savoury, dry and dusty undercarriage, which comes forth to extend the wine with great thrust alongside tastes of red licorice and seasoned pencil shavings-like oak, towards an open ended yet finely powdered finish smitten by a balancing acid act.

ü+ I think I've liked other vintages of this more, but the 2007 remains another great release from what must be one of the Hunter Valley's most reliable shiraz labels. It's amazing I paid $25 for this. Drink to 2020.

92 points

www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

KOOYONG CLONALE CHARDONNAY 2010

2011-08-25T01:44:00.000-07:00

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $25-$31

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

The recent recipient of James Halliday's prestigious 'Winery of the Year' award, Kooyong, boasts an impeccably organised assortment of Mornington Peninsula chardonnay and pinot noir. At the more economical end of Kooyong chardonnay sits the typically clean, fruit driven Clonale, which underwent French oak fermentation (12% new oak) followed by 7 months barrel maturation in 2010.

If you contemplate what Kooyong sets out to achieve with Clonale, then the nose of the 2010 fits like a round peg into a round hole. It's nutty and spotlessly clean, with the mineral-coursed fruit aromas of grapefruit and lemon citrus typical of the wine, ably balanced by some creamy, bready lees work imparting an attractive richness into the mix. A sly hint of nutmeg also appears. These characters transfer beautifully onto the palate, which appears borderless without being loose. Creamy but far from fat, it projects a lively movement of lemons and brioche with nutty undertones down the palate with smoothness and good length of flavour, leading into a finish where refreshing softness outweighs brisk acidity and cut, making it ideal for immediate consumption.

ü Modern yes, but soft, refreshing, deliciously flavoursome and very easy to swallow. As a buy today to drink tonight chardonnay, it's about perfect. Drink to 2014.

90 points

www.kooyongwines.com.au

DE BORTOLI GULF STATION PINOT NOIR 2010

2011-08-24T01:12:00.000-07:00

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $14-$22

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

It's refreshing to see a high profile name like De Bortoli treat pinot noir as a variety that's not just for the wine-educated elite, but more so, everyone. Their Windy Peak and Gulf Station labels have now justifiably become modern day pacesetters amongst Australia's large volume, modestly priced pinot noir class.

De Bortoli's fine form with pinot noir continues with the 2010 Gulf Station, which releases a bright, almost piercing fragrance of mixed cherries, strawberries, toasty oak and earth with a crack of white pepper and a sprinkle of dried herbs. It's clearly a proud overachiever, with an outstanding array of varietal scents for a wine of its price. The palate's a bit juicy, perhaps rich and wholesome for pinot noir, but it glides with the smooth, silky, seductive curves common to the style, unleashing delicious flavours of blood plums and black cherries with savoury/toasty tones as she goes. To top it all off is a beautifully balanced finish, which accentuates the wine in a drier, more savoury manner courtesy of persisting toasty/spicy qualities and a well positioned framework of prickly tannin. Like the fine 2008, a good decant emancipates this wine - so patience people!

ü+ A wonderful release which might even surpass the bloody good 2008 Gulf Station (90pts). Fans of that wine should go equally gaga over this. Drink to 2015.

91 points

www.debortoli.com.au

OZ WINE TOONS

2011-08-22T23:22:00.000-07:00

SHAW AND SMITH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011

2011-08-21T23:40:00.000-07:00

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $20-$30

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

Like many others from South Australia, Shaw and Smith suffered an ultimately challenging 2011 vintage, battling through a cold, wet season where the line between genuine ripeness and botrytis affected grapes became a little too close for comfort. Chardonnay was hit bad and the shiraz wasn't quite up to Shaw and Smith standards, but in their own words, sauvignon blanc was the most successful variety.

Practically water clear in appearance, Shaw and Smith's 2011 displays a nose so cleanly restrained in its mineral accented tones of gooseberry, green apples and lemon zest, that it's almost icy. Smooth and easy to drink, its juicy palate is absolutely spotless and perhaps a shade concentrated, with undertones of gooseberry imparting taste to what is essentially an all-too-clean expression of varietal flavour. Barely graced by notes of citrus and kiwi fruit, its finish is soft, clean and smooth, but it lacks the briskness, backbone and definition of Shaw and Smith's best. It's a straight forward wine that asks as many questions as it answers. Is it mineral, refined and pure, or is it lacking flavour? Either way, it's a fair result given the circumstances and there's still plenty of easy drinking fun to be had here.

O Clean, clean, clean. Too clean even. It's like the preppy cousin whose hair you wanna mess up a bit. Sure, it's a stellar example of how a quaffing wine should drink, but I honestly expect more than that from Shaw and Smith. Maybe I'll revisit it in 6 months... Drink to 2012.

89 points

www.shawandsmith.com

STEFANO LUBIANA PRIMAVERA PINOT NOIR 2010

2011-08-20T00:17:00.000-07:00

- Southern Tasmania

- $25-$36

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

When it comes to sub-$30 Australian pinot noir, Stefano Lubiana's Primavera has been a model of supreme consistency for the best part of this century. If you ask me, the Primavera's reliability over the last 5 years has put a lot of Australia's other, significantly more expensive pinot noirs to shame.

Evenly pitched cherry kernels, red berries, bacon and sweet vanilla/nutty oak enrich the floral fragrance of the 2010 Primavera, which rises in the same unassuming yet keenly varietal manner as Lubiana's previous releases. Also following the label's well worn (and delicious) path is the palate, which is supple, succulent and long - very long in fact - as its smooth expression of sour-edged cherries and meats unfold deep into the mouth with a springy extract of bright acids and fair tannins, before finishing with lingering traces of rare red meats and fresh garden herbs. A seamless integration of texture, refreshing structure and penetrative length make this one stylish little pinot, no matter what the price.

ü+ Steve Lubiana's passionate toils are clearly paying off here, because the 2010 is another surefire winner from the Primavera label. It's hard to imagine how you could pack much more style or sophistication into an earlier drinking Tasmanian pinot noir than this. Drink to 2016.

92 points